OK, here is the deal I change my Cam. I get the car together and it runs it sounds mean. Only tho it is only running on 6 insteed of 8. #6 and #8 nothing, if I pull the plug wires the car doesnt change. I got spark but thats at the distributor cap. Whats wrong possiblly?

------------------
87 Z28 305 TPI, Auto, LT-1 cam (peanut is history), roller timing set, 2.73, Gutted air boxes, K & N fillters, Dyno Max 3" cat back, 8.8 mm spirals, rapid fires, and 170* Stat.
Old Best 15.414 @ 87.47.

 

Possibilies I can think of is burnt plug wires, or burnt plugs.

 

The valves could be too tight.

------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

R.I.P. #3
My favorite quote about D.E. "He can see air"



[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited February 19, 2001).]

 

That could be it, maybe when I did the valve lash I did it to tight. I'll have to try that first any other Ideas?

 

New,

Check the firing order and plug wire routing. It's fairly easy to swap a couple of wires that are adjacent. I've done it on 5 & 7 more than once. That's easier since they are adjacent in the firing order, too.

Are you certain you are getting fuel pulses at those injectors?

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

if you have spark at the plug i would try relashing you valves. if this dosnt work trya comp test pr a cylinder leak down to see if you have a dead cylinder. it prolly jus your lash thouugh

------------------
when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops

Curent: 350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast
Spring 01: 406, Comp 282 solid cam, 2400 stall converter, every thing else the same.

R.I.P #3

 

There are a number of things that could cause this.

First pull the #6 or #8 and with the engine idling (insulated pliars), hold it close to the block. A strong blue spark should jump. An alternate and better way is to connect your timing light to those two wires; you should see steady uninterrupted flashes indicating current is flowing through the wires. Make the connection as close to the plug boot as you can.

If no blue spark or steady flash, it's got to be in the wire. You can check for an internal break by checking the resistance at each end and comparing it to a known good wire.

If both spark well, check each plug. They could be fouled or improperly gapped. If fouled, and the other six aren't, then this points to a leaking injector.

Check the plug closely for cracks. Sometimes one or more can get cracked on assembly and go un-noticed until a running problem develops.

Could be lifter preload too. If one's too tight, this will cause a bad idle. Even a small vacuum leak will cause a bad idle but these won't cause a no spark condition.

It's just a process of elimination now.

Be sure to let us know what you find.

Jake

------------------
1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9

[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited February 21, 2001).]