These qestions apply to a 350, converting from roller to flat tappet.

1. What do I torque the intake manifold down to?
2. What is the torque sequence for the intake?
3. Do I use cam lube or oil on the distibutor gear?
4. Can I use the dist. gear meant for the roller cam on the flat tappet cam?
5. What type of gasket maker can I use on whole the engine?
6. Do I put silicone around every intake port or only around the coolant ports?

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1986 CAMARO Z28 -> 151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframes connectors, polyurethane swaybar bushings/endlinks, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.22@ 106.4MPH 3300lbs less driver and speakers Next mods-> Homemade ram air, B&M shifter, Extreme Energy 230/236 cam.

 

You really should invest in a service manual because it covers a lot of the questions you've asked and many more that will come up in the future.

The GM Service Manual is the best, but is kinda pricey. A Haynes will suffice if you're bucks down though.

For the 86 L98 I've seen two sets of torque spec for the intake - 25 psi and 35 psi. I believe the lower figure was given with an aftermarket manifold. I use 35 on mine.

The L98 has a sort of strange torque sequence if you go by the manual. For over 30 years, I'd always torqued manifold bolts starting at the center, then alternating side to side, front to rear. The manual calls for the center, then the rear, then the front in two increments.

I use four increments 10, 20, 30 and 35. Let manifold sit for over an hour and then recheck the torque on each bolt. Sometimes aftermarket gaskets will compress and take a set, loosening the torque.

I sensor safe silicone both sides of the intake gaskets around all the ports, coolant and intake. I also dimple the ends of the block and the underside of the manifold with a punch to give the 3/8" bead of silicone something to 'bite' into.

I roughen the ends with coarse grit sand paper and make absolutely sure that every trace of oil/old sealant/grease is removed.

Cams requiring a different distributor gear are steel billet cams which call for a bronze gear. Unless your cam maker specifies otherwise, the stock distributor gear is fine, just check it for wear on the teeth and the .005 clearance.

I use moly lube on the gears since oil will drain off easily. Crane recommends grinding a .030 x .030 groove in the lower portion of the distributor gear to provide pressurized oil to the gears, thus extending their life. Their catalog shows a drawing of how to do it. Check their website; I do it to mine.

I used Permatex Ultra Black Sensor Safe silicone. Other kinds work as well as long as it's pure silicone and is sensor safe.

I'll email you a file on the technique to install the intake manifold so it won't leak in the future. Let me know if I can help further.

BTW, why are you converting from a roller to a flat tappet?

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9



[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited February 23, 2001).]

 

yep for 15 dollars you should buy a manual

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd