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Nodular Iron vs. Cast Iron Cranks

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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 06:53 AM
  #1  
mystikkal_69's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
Nodular Iron vs. Cast Iron Cranks

well how can you tell the difference between the 2?

a gm cast crank and a gm nodular iron crank? (this is on a one piece rear main seal, 350, stock)

do they have different part #'s? anyone?
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 08:09 AM
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ede
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don't think you can tell looking at them externally and only with pratice could you tell by looking at a break. nodular is stronger than regular cast.
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 08:17 AM
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
damn. a guy is trying to sell me a crank saying it's nodular. well i don't believe unless i'm absolutetly sure. well i guess i'll pass. that's the reason i want a nodular crank in my little build up, it's a little stronger.

i would have thought that gm would have given it a different part#.? oh well. thanks.
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 09:56 AM
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ede
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might look in a metallurgy book but i think the only way to tell is looking at a cross section fracture. might be able to tell with a spark test and a grinder on a weight, but i doubt they'd let you try that.
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 04:42 PM
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From: HAUNTING THE CHAPEL
Car: '87 Mustang LX
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
I'm not sure if chevy used it too, but pontiac V8 nodular cranks where cast with a large N on one of the throws. You may want to look for this.
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Old Mar 25, 2004 | 11:19 AM
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Car: 1991 Z28 1LE A.K.A The blue rocket
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Speaking of spark testing EDE, what are we looking for? If you grind cast iron it throws a spark. But cast steel doesnt. Or its the other way around, I always get it mixed up.
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