Okay, I fixed the gasket leaks and now it will start. But it idles very rough and stalls out after a few minutes. Also, it will stall as soon as I put it in gear. Now, its only run for about 5 minutes total the last month and a half, 4.5 of those minutes being today. Is there anything I can do to get it to idle and not stall out on me? Should I try to raise the idle speed? How do I do that? Does the engine just need to brethe better, like should I gut the cat or somthing like that? Also, what and WHERE is the thing I need to disconnect to set the timing? And also, when I disconnect it, do I just adjust it by turning the distributor and use a timing light, and where should I set that timing at? Thanks a lot in advance guys, we're so close to getting this thing right!!

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

 

Dan,
Set the IAC and TPS according to the instructions found in the tech article on this site.
I believe there is an article also on how to adjust the base timing.
If you have low vacuum at idle, because of the camshaft you are running, you may want to try advancing your initial timing to 8 or 10 degrees which should help a little.

 

get that timing set first, then try to adjust the other stuff and go back and doublecheck timing. misadjusted timing can ruin a motor quick. the timing connector is on the wiring loom that goes over the evaporator case just above the rear of the RH valve cover. it's a single wire plug that breaks out of the wiring loom. the timing spec will vary depending on the cam grind. I would set it to the stock spec (probably 6 degrees) if the cam doesn't suggest one. I had Car Pro motorsports make me a chip and they gave me the timing spec for my setup with the chip. you can probably go a little above stock but make sure you make note of any detonation. Only run premium fuel if you adjust the timing and probably if you run stock timing.

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Kyle Osterholt
Okarche, Oklahoma
ASE Master Certified
86 T/A 383 TPI
89 TTA #1002 T-top/Leather
89 TTA #1358 Hardtop/Leather
80 T/A Pace Car
73 Opel GT
73 bronco

 

Okay, I think I know what wire that is. Its a single, male/female connection, that is close to the distributor on the passenger side valve cover? And, after I adjust the timing with it disconnected, do I adjust it after I re-connect it?

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

 

Rought idle and stalling can be caused by several things, but the most common are:

Vacuum leak

Valve(s) adjusted too tightly

Mis-adjusted timing.

Incorrect plug gap/cracked plug

Bad plug wire

To adjust the timing, you disconnect the EST connector wire (on mine is a brown wire with a black stripe with a weatherpak connector. Connect your timing light, start the engine (which may be difficult because the EST wire is disconnected) and once it idles relatively steadily, adjust the timing.

The stock setting is probably 6 degrees BTDC, but you can try advancing it 2 degrees; maybe even four. If the engine cranks slowly like the starter's laboring, the timing is too far advanced; backfiring is usually too retarded.

Once it's adjusted, shut down the engine, reconnnect the EST connector and disconnect the battery for at least 30 seconds to clear the code the ECM will store when it detected the engine running with the EST wire disconnected.

You can then restart the engine, attach a vacuum gauge to a plenum port and see if it has a steady vacuum reading. You should be pulling about 16 Hg of vacuum or more with the trans in park and engine in closed loop and warmed up.

You can use a spray can of carb cleaner to check all the possible locations for a leak. Intake manifold, runners, plenum, injectors where the enter the manifold.

Also check to be sure all the rubber hoses are attached and than none are cracked and leaking air. Tracking down vacuum leaks can be a real PIA, but if you keep at it you will eventually find it.

Once the timing is right and you see that there is no vacuum leak, but the engine still idles poorly, I'd go through the valves again. It only takes one that too tight to kill your idle.

Also double check for crossed plug wire. This will cause a bad idle too.

To check/set the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), you'll need a digital voltmeter and three lengths of wire about 6" in length each. If you need the step by step, shoot me a line.

Keep us posted.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9