hi,new here,my wife and i just purchased a 1986 TA,with a 305 TPI fuel injected motor, it idles high when you start it and it is drinking the gas,any info would be helpful thanks

 

Scott,

Welcome Aboard!

Congratulate your room mate on her purchase. What an unusual set of coincidences! I noticed you're from the USA - Me, too! And you have an '86 TA - Me, Too! And your wife bought it for you - Me, too!

Anyway, the normal start cycle will have the engine idle at about 1,300-1,500 RPM right after startup, and the speed should reduce quickly after the engien is running and the ECM starts to collect temperature data. If the engine is warm, the idle should drop quickly. If the engine is cold, the idle may lower slowly until it is relatively normal after about 1½-2 minutes. After that, "normal" idle RPM for a fully warmed engine is about 900-950 RPM in neutral or park, 600-650 RPM in drive.

Sucks gas? Can you quantify that? How many MPG? Having any other symptoms?

 

thanks so much for the info when the car is warm it will idle about 1400 rpms for about 2 min and it idles 950 in drive ?????? and its getting about 10 miles to the gallon...the car has no gas leaks, it runs smooth except when its cold, when it warms up it runs smooth and strong,so if you can think of anything else id like to know but thanks for the info

 

Well, not exactly. When teh coolant temperature sensor is cold, the engine will start at between 1,300-1,500 RPM and slowly drop to normal within 1½-2 minutes. When the CTS is warmer, the engine will start at 1,300-1,500 RPM and drop more quickly to the normal idle RPM, within 30 seconds or so.

10 MPg is not good. If the engine seems to run normally, you might want to look into an oxygen sensor signal. The typical failure mode of an O² sensor is a slowly weakening signal (which translates to an artificially lean indication to the ECM), so the ECM enriches the mixture to compensate. If the O² is more than 30,000 miles old, has been contaminated, or is damaged, you may want to replace it. It's an easy swap from above the engine, and the sensor is about $20-25.

Since the car is "new" to you, you may want to perform all necessary maintenance for a car of that age and mileage. Previous owners' records are not always reliable, and we cannot assume anything. Inspecting the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters, fluids, a throttle body cleaning, TPs setting, IAC cleaning, PCV service, and timing check are good, inexpensive steps. You don't necessarily need to replace all that - Just check them all out.

 

thanks thats this weekends project

 

I've heard too, that when the knock sensor goes dead (very unlikely) that the computer puts the engine into 'limp home mode' which really sucks back the gas.

I have an '83 Z28 with a carb. I know for a fact that I have the wrong knock sensor in it, because I was too dumb to know at the time, and it gets about 5mpg right now.

I'd try what Vader suggests first. If that doesn't fix it, then it might be a good idea to check out your knock sensor. Its right above the oil pan on the passenger side of the block, threaded into a coolant passage. On the off-chance that this is your problem, or part of it, I'd have either a reputable shop or something do this one. Its not a particularly difficult job, its just one that you really don't want to do, lol .... the sensor is threaded into the coolant drain hole on the block

Good luck with it

PS - welcome!