New to the mod game. where do i start??
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 35
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From: Canada
New to the mod game. where do i start??
Hey guys just thought i could pick your minds. i'v got a 91' 1LE z28 as i'm sure u could guess.I'm a huge 3rd gen fan. I've owned an 82' 305 Z28, when i went to start modifing it all the mags said the tranny was weak, so i sold it and bought a 86'z28 HO.Then all the mags said if you want to build a decent 3rd gen, that you should start with a 87' or later model. now 5 years later i think I've got the perfect base car to start with.So I'm just starting the upgade process, where do I start?? i just bought a k&N filter, so whats next??I'm looking for around 300hp.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
I am no expert, but here's what I would do. Of course this all has to do with how much money Get a good pair of headers w/ a 3 in. cat back exhaust and a flowmaster, which will run in the area of $500, personally I went with the Edelbrock TES headers for $300, but after about 6 months they have started to rust a little, but I could feel the difference in power. I am not sure what kind of rear you have in the car, but I would go w/ a 3:73 posi rear assuming you have OD. You can get an underdrive pulley for the crank for about $60, this will improve gas milage, about 10hp, and increase accessory life. Possibly even do a cam change which run that much money for the hp you can gain from it, but that is a lot of work and I am not sure what kind of cam comes in the 1LE maybe is it already sufficient. Those are the mods I would start with, I don't know anything about Fuel Injected engines, but I am sure someone will give you advice on that.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Oh, I have a question for you, when I bought my 86 IROC, I was told it was an HO, only to find out that it wasn't and there were only 79 produced I believe, are you sure that you owned an 86 HO.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,386
Likes: 1
From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
To learn about modding the TPI, go to the Tech Article Section of this site, there is lots of information there, and do searches on the boards for more information. https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/index.shtml 
------------------
Looking For:
87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.
[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited February 27, 2001).]
------------------
Looking For:
87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.
[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited February 27, 2001).]
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,386
Likes: 1
From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
There are 74 L69's for 86.
------------------
Looking For:
87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.
[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited February 27, 2001).]
------------------
Looking For:
87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.
[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited February 27, 2001).]
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 19,658
Likes: 310
Blue,
Welcome aboard! You certainly picked the right place to get a few thousand opinions.
The first thing you should do is to determine what you want the car to be when finished. I know that this can change along the way, but a clear goal is good to have. If you want to build a decent street car that is still reliable and trouble-free enough to drive to work daily, that will help determine what you can/should do. If you want a car that chugs it's way to the track on weekends only, and makes gobs of rubber-crispies three times a week, that also determines what you can/should do.
Since you are starting by saying you want a reasonable power level of 300, I'm assuming you want to drive the car more than just three ¼-mile trips a week. Based on that assumption, I'll throw in my 2¢ (Canadian, of course).
More power is generally going to be achieved with more air flow into and out of the engine. Stock SBC cylinder heads have always been restrictive. The Chevy Powertrain guys always leave lots of power out there on the table and all you need to do is go and get it. The heads are probably the single most significant piece when it comes to improving flows. Even a restrictive factory exhaust and "tiny" 48mm TB and 70mm MAF, along with a weak cam profile can be made to produce very good power with the right head design. Even if you don't plan to modify or change your heads right away, understanding that fact should guide the rest of your efforts so that when you do get around to head work all your other modifications will work with the heads instaed of being wasted.
You're lucky to have a 1LE car, since you should have a better-than-average cam profile from the factory. Nothing to get all excited about, but better than average. With that in mind, a cam change might not be the first thing you want to do, either. And keep in mind that changing either the heads or cam in your engine will likely require a custom or aftermarket PROM for the ECM. Eventually, you will probably go there.
The free-flowing filter is a step in the right direction. A free-flowing exhaust will eventually be beneficial as well, although the factory exhaust system is adequate on your model. Another useful modification will be a ported plenum/runners/base to enable more flow. The extra air flow will require more fuel flow to keep the mixture ratios correct. This can be accomplished with larger injectors and/or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Cold air intake will be an advantage as well, since the cooler, more dense air will produce more compression and power. A high energy ignition system will be necessary when the power and RPMs start to increase. And all of this extra power will tend to produce more heat, so a solid cooling system at a lower temperature can be a necessity. A lower temperature thermostat and auxilliary fan switch can be beneficial even without significant engine modifications.
Aside from the exhaust and ignition systems, the other modifications can be done for relatively little or no money, and some of your time and talent. The Tech Articles on this site have some helpful ideas on these mods, and there are more suggestions out there.
Of course, all of the power in the world does no good if the car is not maintained. Keep the necessary maintenance current. That alone can be the difference between a "junker" and a "jewel". Consider using synthetic lubricants to reduce friction - less friction means more power and a longer lasting vehicle. I have a magazine copy of dyno results showing over 10HP gain on a chassis dyno with syntheic engine oil and differential oil alone. Keep the chassis clean and lubed, and the wheels straight and balanced. Take care of the transmission as well.
Another item that will give you better acceleration is a higher stall-speed torque converter. Allowing the engine to increase to a higher RPM sooner will provide more power to the rear wheels sooner - just what you need in a relatively heavy street car. If you use a lockup design converter, your fuel mileage can be essentially the same as it is now, and you'll get the extra torque when you need it.
You already have a respectable suspension system with your 1LE, and could have an aluminum matrix driveshaft. You should also have the larger brakes, so again, the advantages of 1LE ownership are evident.
Sit back, read teh responses, scout around the site a bit for more ideas, and when you get ready to dive into a project, there will be plenty of advice on how you should spend your time and cash.
Good luck.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
Welcome aboard! You certainly picked the right place to get a few thousand opinions.
The first thing you should do is to determine what you want the car to be when finished. I know that this can change along the way, but a clear goal is good to have. If you want to build a decent street car that is still reliable and trouble-free enough to drive to work daily, that will help determine what you can/should do. If you want a car that chugs it's way to the track on weekends only, and makes gobs of rubber-crispies three times a week, that also determines what you can/should do.
Since you are starting by saying you want a reasonable power level of 300, I'm assuming you want to drive the car more than just three ¼-mile trips a week. Based on that assumption, I'll throw in my 2¢ (Canadian, of course).
More power is generally going to be achieved with more air flow into and out of the engine. Stock SBC cylinder heads have always been restrictive. The Chevy Powertrain guys always leave lots of power out there on the table and all you need to do is go and get it. The heads are probably the single most significant piece when it comes to improving flows. Even a restrictive factory exhaust and "tiny" 48mm TB and 70mm MAF, along with a weak cam profile can be made to produce very good power with the right head design. Even if you don't plan to modify or change your heads right away, understanding that fact should guide the rest of your efforts so that when you do get around to head work all your other modifications will work with the heads instaed of being wasted.
You're lucky to have a 1LE car, since you should have a better-than-average cam profile from the factory. Nothing to get all excited about, but better than average. With that in mind, a cam change might not be the first thing you want to do, either. And keep in mind that changing either the heads or cam in your engine will likely require a custom or aftermarket PROM for the ECM. Eventually, you will probably go there.
The free-flowing filter is a step in the right direction. A free-flowing exhaust will eventually be beneficial as well, although the factory exhaust system is adequate on your model. Another useful modification will be a ported plenum/runners/base to enable more flow. The extra air flow will require more fuel flow to keep the mixture ratios correct. This can be accomplished with larger injectors and/or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Cold air intake will be an advantage as well, since the cooler, more dense air will produce more compression and power. A high energy ignition system will be necessary when the power and RPMs start to increase. And all of this extra power will tend to produce more heat, so a solid cooling system at a lower temperature can be a necessity. A lower temperature thermostat and auxilliary fan switch can be beneficial even without significant engine modifications.
Aside from the exhaust and ignition systems, the other modifications can be done for relatively little or no money, and some of your time and talent. The Tech Articles on this site have some helpful ideas on these mods, and there are more suggestions out there.
Of course, all of the power in the world does no good if the car is not maintained. Keep the necessary maintenance current. That alone can be the difference between a "junker" and a "jewel". Consider using synthetic lubricants to reduce friction - less friction means more power and a longer lasting vehicle. I have a magazine copy of dyno results showing over 10HP gain on a chassis dyno with syntheic engine oil and differential oil alone. Keep the chassis clean and lubed, and the wheels straight and balanced. Take care of the transmission as well.
Another item that will give you better acceleration is a higher stall-speed torque converter. Allowing the engine to increase to a higher RPM sooner will provide more power to the rear wheels sooner - just what you need in a relatively heavy street car. If you use a lockup design converter, your fuel mileage can be essentially the same as it is now, and you'll get the extra torque when you need it.
You already have a respectable suspension system with your 1LE, and could have an aluminum matrix driveshaft. You should also have the larger brakes, so again, the advantages of 1LE ownership are evident.
Sit back, read teh responses, scout around the site a bit for more ideas, and when you get ready to dive into a project, there will be plenty of advice on how you should spend your time and cash.
Good luck.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
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Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,264
Likes: 0
Well, As Fun as It is To Follow Vader...
Aside from what The Man has Said, I would Focus on the "free" mods First.
There is alot to be Gotten out of these cars with just a little know-how (Or guidance). What this also Does is Puts you In a Much better Position To decide What Magor, Expensive Mods you Want(need) to make. There are plenty Of things to Spend Your money On, and Not all of them are going to Make You Go Fast.
Sit, read, Tinker and ask questions. Learn how the system Works and You will be In a Much better position to Improve upon It.
Just Following in everyone elses footsteps Blindly Is a good way to get yourself In Over your head, And a good way to get frustrated and Lose intrest.
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Aside from what The Man has Said, I would Focus on the "free" mods First.
There is alot to be Gotten out of these cars with just a little know-how (Or guidance). What this also Does is Puts you In a Much better Position To decide What Magor, Expensive Mods you Want(need) to make. There are plenty Of things to Spend Your money On, and Not all of them are going to Make You Go Fast.
Sit, read, Tinker and ask questions. Learn how the system Works and You will be In a Much better position to Improve upon It.
Just Following in everyone elses footsteps Blindly Is a good way to get yourself In Over your head, And a good way to get frustrated and Lose intrest.
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Banned
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,384
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OPTION 1:
Good set of Heads-$1600
Roller Cam-$250
new valve springs-$80
head gaskets-$90
intake gaskets-$30
SLP 1 3/4 headers (you'd need this size if not bigger with heads/cam package)-$450
Prom-$350
catback,we'll say-$300 (depending on brand)
Grand total . $3150
1/4mile time estimates...roughly high 12s
-----------------------------------------
OPTION 2:
Brand new ATI 9lb w/2core interc. -$2703 from Excessive Motorsports
Custom Prom-$350
Grand total-$3053
1/4mile time estimates-high 11s-low 12s
ATI has gotten 100% stock L98 F-bodies into the high 11s with the 600b kit. You can also use full factory timing. As you can see, the cheaper route will be the blower, and you will save yourself a lot of labor and time. Blowers take a day to install !Not to mention you will have a lot more power .
[This message has been edited by theformula (edited February 28, 2001).]
Good set of Heads-$1600
Roller Cam-$250
new valve springs-$80
head gaskets-$90
intake gaskets-$30
SLP 1 3/4 headers (you'd need this size if not bigger with heads/cam package)-$450
Prom-$350
catback,we'll say-$300 (depending on brand)
Grand total . $3150
1/4mile time estimates...roughly high 12s
-----------------------------------------
OPTION 2:
Brand new ATI 9lb w/2core interc. -$2703 from Excessive Motorsports
Custom Prom-$350
Grand total-$3053
1/4mile time estimates-high 11s-low 12s
ATI has gotten 100% stock L98 F-bodies into the high 11s with the 600b kit. You can also use full factory timing. As you can see, the cheaper route will be the blower, and you will save yourself a lot of labor and time. Blowers take a day to install !Not to mention you will have a lot more power .
[This message has been edited by theformula (edited February 28, 2001).]
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Well i definetly came to the right place.thanks to everyone for your suggestions.Vader, as for the heads,my wife managed to get the stock heads ported and polished for me from her friends husband.(someone i'll have to get to know better!).As for the 86' i don't know for sure.It had the dual snorkel and said 305 HO on it but that doesn't mean any thing i guess.My 91 does have the aluminum drive shaft and aluminum brake calipers. thaks for all the advice i'll keep yas up to date.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,429
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From: Belleville, IL USA
for first mods, I'd say to stick to the no-brainers that require no tuning in order to work.
basically:
exhaust
pulley
weight reduction
then pick and choose as you feel comfortable with where you're at.
If you start out with other methods then you might lose performance and never realize it. It's fairly easy for some mods to add some power in one area while taking away from another.
basically:
exhaust
pulley
weight reduction
then pick and choose as you feel comfortable with where you're at.
If you start out with other methods then you might lose performance and never realize it. It's fairly easy for some mods to add some power in one area while taking away from another.
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