How do you put back in the distributer so the timing isn't all screwed up? The Haynes manual I have says to mark the distributer hold downs position on the intake. I won't be putting the stock intake back on. Any help?

THANKS

 

Common sense would dictate that. Mark a spot near where the distributor sits in the 0 and transfer the mark to the new manifold by holding the old one directly above/below.

When i change distributors, i try to make the rotor button stop so it faces the firewall. This way i get a ruler, and make a chalk mark in a straight line from the rotor to the firewall. You can also do this to the housing to keep the same timing. The firewall is easier to use for 1 reason, it doesn't move.

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--Steve S--
1984 Trans Am 305 LG4, 5 speed
Daily Driver, Flowmaster 80 Series
NOW FEATURING: Holley 600 cfm & vacuum advance

 

Get your engine to the #1 firing position. The dots on the timing chain should be at 12 o'clock for the cam and 12 o'clock for the crank, thats the #1 firing position. Then you turn your rotor so that it is close to where the #1 electrode is on the inside of the distirbutor cap, then drop it down, you will probably have to wiggle it for a little while to get it to drop in.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

 

I have feeling he doesn't have the timing cover off to see the timing marks. If you do not crank the engine over during the swap, mark the rotor's relationship to the distirb, then mark the edges of the hold down. This will give you your marks to get close, there are ways to do it perfectly, however, it's much much simplier just to point a timing light.

For the TDC method, you will need a timing light. To find #1 TDC with the timing gears hidden, remove spark plug #1 and put your finger over the spark plug hole while you rotate your engine by hand (when you feel the engine push air out forcefully against your finger you're approaching TDC) move the crank until the harmonic balancer mark is at about 0 to -4 (it will have to be timed anyhow, but it will start here). Start it up, adjust the timing and you're set.

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 Trans Am T-tops
4-bolt main 350, performer intake, headers, Holley 650, T-5, hayes clutch, dual elec. fans and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
13.98 @ 101

 

I'm assuming you've already got the old one out. Notice that with the dist. out of the car, the rotor will tend to settle in 8 distinct positions as you turn it, which correspond to the firing positions. Put some kleenex into the #1 sparkplug hole (leave the other plugs in) and bump the starter until the kleenex shoots out. Look into the distributor hole in the manifold - it's tough to shine a light in there and look but you can do it. You'll see the slot that engages the oil pump. Use a floor jack bar or long screwdriver to turn this so that the "slot" points roughly at the #5 spark plug. Then put the dist in partway, with the rotor one "click" before what the #1 firing position will be, and drop it down. If it won't go in with the rotor pointing at #1, make small adjustments to the oil pump gear and try again. Should only take 2 or 3 tries. Good luck.