i get blue smoke at start up
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Red Deer AB Canada
Car: 86 z28
Engine: 305 carbed with 3" Y pipe back
Transmission: 700r4 that is breaking down
i get blue smoke at start up
well when i start the car when it has been sitting for an amount of time i get blue smoke for about a second just one puff. after that i can rev her up and down and no blue smoke. i know that valve seals are a constant problem with gm engines how hard are these to replace and how much am i looking at paying. i do all my own work b/c i have access to a shop tools and a good mechanic. any imput would be great thanks
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
It's a little time-consuming and a bit cramped, but not terribly bad.
You need some method of keeping the valves up while you remove the valve springs. My preferred choice is compressed air through the sparkplug hole (after the rocker arms are loosened/removed). Others bring the piston up to TDC, still others stuff a bunch of rope through the spark plug hole to hold the valve up against the seat.
If you're doing the job yourself, the parts will range from $15-$30, depending upon the quality you get and the number of gaskets you replace (such as valve cover) while you're at it.
You'll need a way to compress the valve springs while the heads are on the car. I prefer the lever type that folcrums on the rocker stud to the types that clamp and compress the spring.
You need some method of keeping the valves up while you remove the valve springs. My preferred choice is compressed air through the sparkplug hole (after the rocker arms are loosened/removed). Others bring the piston up to TDC, still others stuff a bunch of rope through the spark plug hole to hold the valve up against the seat.
If you're doing the job yourself, the parts will range from $15-$30, depending upon the quality you get and the number of gaskets you replace (such as valve cover) while you're at it.
You'll need a way to compress the valve springs while the heads are on the car. I prefer the lever type that folcrums on the rocker stud to the types that clamp and compress the spring.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 233
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From: IN THE LBC
Car: 1988 IROC CONVERTIBLE
Engine: 305 TPI PAXTON SUPERCHARGER & NOS
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by five7kid
It's a little time-consuming and a bit cramped, but not terribly bad.
You need some method of keeping the valves up while you remove the valve springs. My preferred choice is compressed air through the sparkplug hole (after the rocker arms are loosened/removed). Others bring the piston up to TDC, still others stuff a bunch of rope through the spark plug hole to hold the valve up against the seat.
If you're doing the job yourself, the parts will range from $15-$30, depending upon the quality you get and the number of gaskets you replace (such as valve cover) while you're at it.
You'll need a way to compress the valve springs while the heads are on the car. I prefer the lever type that folcrums on the rocker stud to the types that clamp and compress the spring.
It's a little time-consuming and a bit cramped, but not terribly bad.
You need some method of keeping the valves up while you remove the valve springs. My preferred choice is compressed air through the sparkplug hole (after the rocker arms are loosened/removed). Others bring the piston up to TDC, still others stuff a bunch of rope through the spark plug hole to hold the valve up against the seat.
If you're doing the job yourself, the parts will range from $15-$30, depending upon the quality you get and the number of gaskets you replace (such as valve cover) while you're at it.
You'll need a way to compress the valve springs while the heads are on the car. I prefer the lever type that folcrums on the rocker stud to the types that clamp and compress the spring.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Originally posted by IrocZonNos
Why do you prefer the lever type over the clamp type? What are the pros and cons?
Why do you prefer the lever type over the clamp type? What are the pros and cons?
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Compressed air, as five7 mentioned, is one way.
Personally, i just shove a length of nylon rope into the combustion chamber and leave a tag end loose. Then there is physically no room for the valve to fall.
Personally, i just shove a length of nylon rope into the combustion chamber and leave a tag end loose. Then there is physically no room for the valve to fall.
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: IN THE LBC
Car: 1988 IROC CONVERTIBLE
Engine: 305 TPI PAXTON SUPERCHARGER & NOS
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by Stekman
Compressed air, as five7 mentioned, is one way.
Personally, i just shove a length of nylon rope into the combustion chamber and leave a tag end loose. Then there is physically no room for the valve to fall.
Compressed air, as five7 mentioned, is one way.
Personally, i just shove a length of nylon rope into the combustion chamber and leave a tag end loose. Then there is physically no room for the valve to fall.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Ahhh it was a while ago. Before i had access to compressed air. Was slightly smaller than 1/4" nylon. I dont remember off hand how much i pushed in.
I unplugged the distributor's power supply, shoved the rope in the cylinder then bumped it over some. the piston mashed the rope against the valves. Once i was done, i just bumped it over some more to loosen it up.
It was time consuming. But, like i said, this was before i got my air compressor. If i were to replace the springs or anything like that, id use the air.
I unplugged the distributor's power supply, shoved the rope in the cylinder then bumped it over some. the piston mashed the rope against the valves. Once i was done, i just bumped it over some more to loosen it up.
It was time consuming. But, like i said, this was before i got my air compressor. If i were to replace the springs or anything like that, id use the air.
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