Engine quits on hot days
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Brampton, Ontario
Engine quits on hot days
After engine gets hot (op-temp) it quits. After it quits it will start up but wont keep running. after it cools down I can start it and drive for about 1/2 an hour before it quits. In the evening it seems to work fine. :no codes, new injectors, new computor, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor button, coil, ignition modual. Fuel pressure is 46psi at idle. I haven't been able to check it when it dies. Car is an 87' GTA 350 TPI 15000km on engine. PLEASE HELP
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 0
From: Lima, Ohio
How many miles does the car have? Or more importantly, the engine. If it has a TON of miles it may be the distributor itself. Possbily the pickup coil on the base of the distributor could be going out on you.
Just some thoughts,
Brendan
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1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,
To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here
Just some thoughts,
Brendan
------------------
1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,
To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah, it does sound like the 'ol bad spark module problem... but you replaced it already? Maybe you got a bad one? Did you use that white heat-transfer gunk between the module base and the distributor? And like leirch said, replacing the pickup coil's a good idea too (unless that's the coil you were talking about).
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Brampton, Ontario
The coil I replaced is the ignition coil. The car has 126000km on the body. The engine was a complete rebuild including new crank, bearings, rods, and pistons. Bore .030" over
with 10:1 flat tops. Reason for rebuild was a rusted oil cooling line blowing at 5000rpm, and with digtial dash, t-tops out, and a bright sunny day made it hard to see the oil guage. Thanks for the tip on the pick-up coil I'll try it.
with 10:1 flat tops. Reason for rebuild was a rusted oil cooling line blowing at 5000rpm, and with digtial dash, t-tops out, and a bright sunny day made it hard to see the oil guage. Thanks for the tip on the pick-up coil I'll try it.
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