A while back I read a post where someone said that the Eagle Externally Balanced cranks can be balanced internally, if lightweight pistons and rods are used.
It would save me the expense of having to get a new flexplate and dampener if that were so.
Does anyone have any specific data on that?
A good rod & piston weight to shoot for?

Thank you, as always

 

Might talk to a few machine shops around your neck of the woods and see what they reccomend. Most people here building strokers wouldnt bother going external ballance since cost and down time would be too much of a factor. IMO if you want a stroker poping down the $850-1200 on a complete kit ready to rock makes more sence.

 

most likely it could be, with enough mallory in it. so to avoid the cost of buying a dampner and flywheel for the external balance you're wanting to pay for a lot of malloy, light weight rods and light weight pistons. have any idea what the cost is on the light weight parts? bet it's more than the dampner and flywheel.

 

I just bought a stroker kit (383) it was the eagle internally balanced crank..I don`t know if there different but, I didn`t see any mallory plugs. It came with sir rods 6 inch and kieth black flat tops..je rings and clevite rod and main..all was balanced before I got it..have the balance card somewhere. (775.00) I didn`t want to mess with flywheels and balancers either...It already had a fluid dampner and a billet flywheel for the super t-10, so now I can reuse it all

 

One question...where?

 

His name is Monty and I had to wait a few weeks but it was well worth it. Very nice to deal with, He had an auction on ebay for that one but I kinda took it as that was a "normal" price, but I could be wrong. Contact him and ask, replies quickly and he very helpful, just overwelmed with business usually

legacepower@aol.com

 

The internally balanced eagle stroker cranks are limited to the 6" rods.
By adding more metal to the counterweight they could make it balance internally, but with the 5.7 rod the bottom of the piston would scrape.

Some reworked factory rods with some lightweight forged pistons is what I had in mind for mine, as far as lightweight goes.... Nothing too exotic

 

My 383 was put together with a Scat Forged internally balanced crank with counter weights for 5.7" rods. 6" Eagle SIR rods were used with KB hyper flattops. The shop said this combo was the easiest to balance & relatively light weight.

 

Ricktpi... It sounds like what you're saying is that you used a Scat crank that is advertised as being external balance but it DID balance internally using the parts mentioned above.

Correct?

 

No, the Scat 4340 cranks are all made to be internally balanced.

 

Cool enough...
I'm just building this engine for my work truck anyhow, so I won't be putting any major demands on the bottom end.
I think I'll go with OEM rods and dished hypers, unless the balancing shop tells me the crank would balance internally with a lighter assy (within reason). Then I may get some 6" rods and lighter pistons, if it's cost effective.

Thanks

 

I made a 400 4340 Forged Eagle External crank into an internally balanced. I bought the crank off ebay for around 360 bucks shipped brand new still in the box. Paid $100 to have to turn to 350 mains then I had around 80 to 100 bucks of mallory metal add'd to it (was still cheaper than buying the 383 4340 eagle). I had them internally balance it to my forged trw pistons and my forged LW I beam rods. Also had heads checked out for valve springs to make sure they were alright for a solid roller. Block was tanked, fluxed, bored, aligned, clearanced, and the other normal things. Also had all gaskets surfaces checked to make sure they were true. Ran me around $600 just for labor at the shop.

I probably end'd up right around 1500 to 1600 bucks (total purchase and labor for just the rotating assembly minus rings). But if it wasn't a complete high performance build I would just used a regular 383 balanced kit from somewhere.

 

Good Story, Thanks