Help with heater core replacement
#1
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Help with heater core replacement
After smelling the lovely smell of antifreeze in my car only to look down and see antifreeze all over my feet and in the passenger well, I thought it was about time to fix the heater core.
Well I'm having trouble getting the hoses to come off of the stupid heater core inlet/outlets. I unscrewed the metal things and tugged and pulled until I was red in the face but they hardly moved. Anyone have any secrets to help me yank these hoses off? Or should I just cut 'em and buy new ones? If that's the case then how much are new ones?
Thanks in advance guys!!
Well I'm having trouble getting the hoses to come off of the stupid heater core inlet/outlets. I unscrewed the metal things and tugged and pulled until I was red in the face but they hardly moved. Anyone have any secrets to help me yank these hoses off? Or should I just cut 'em and buy new ones? If that's the case then how much are new ones?
Thanks in advance guys!!
#3
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I feel your pain... Just went through it all this weekend. After cleaning up the puddle in my floorboard. I bought a new heater core from Autozone for $18.00 and two new hoses 1 is 5/8" the other is 3/4" about 3' of each should do it with a few inches to spare. Cost about $1.50 per ft. Cut the old hoses off the nipples. Remove old heater core (PITA) install new heater pushing nipples thru firewall (another PITA) bolt in replace hoses, cut to fit, clamps, fluid your in business total time about 1 hour.
Good luck.
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#4
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I used a pair of channel locks to grab and twist the hoses some, to get them to break loose. There is also a "screwdriver" with a sharp point and curved tip for just such applications.
#5
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Car: 1991 GTA Convertible
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Break them loose with pliers or channel locks and then take a flat head screw driver and pry off the hoses, saves you time and $$$. Uless the hoses are really bad to the point where they are rusty looking, cracked and crimped from being so old.
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1988 GTA 5.7L TPI Auto
355 ci. block, SLP Cold Air Intake w/ K&N, fully modified MAF Sensor, TPIS 52mm Throttle Body w/Air Foil, Fully Ported and Polished Plenum, Nikel-plated Ported SLP Siamesed Runners, Ported TPIS Big Mouth Intake Manifold, stock heads w/ 1.52 Comp Cams Self-aligning Roller Rockers, TPIS ZZ-9 Roller Camshaft, TPIS Valve Springs, Cloyes True Double Roller Timing Chain, TPIS Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Ford Motorsports SVO 30 lb/hr Fuel Injectors, MSD 6AL, Taylor 10mm Wires, Bosch Platinum +4 Spark Plugs, MSD Blaster Coil, MSD Shift Light, March Underdrive Pulleys, 6 3/4" Vibratech Streetdamper, TPIS Level 4 PROM, 160 T-stat, Low Temp. Fan Switch, Stock Distributor w/ Bronze Gear, SLP 1 3/4" Headers, Random Technologies High Flow Cat., Adjustable Borla Cat Back Exhaust, Flow Tech Pre-Cat 3" Exhaust Cut Off, ZR1 Heated O2 Sensor, Level 10 PTS-3 700R4 Trans, B&M Holeshot 2400 Stall Converter, B&M Trans Cooler, TCI Aluminum Finned Trans Pan, Torque Converter Lock Up Switch, 3" Balanced Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.73 Richmond Gears, Auburn Pro-Series Differential, Aluminum Differential Cover w/ Main Cap Preloads, BF Goodrich Drag Radials 255/50 R16, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, Hotchkis Panhard Rod, Hotchkis Tie Rod Adjuster Sleeves, Bilstein Heavy Duty Shocks and Struts, 1LE Springs, Energy Suspension Polyeurethane Bushings, Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors, Global West Steering Box Brace, HP Motorsports 3 Point Strut Tower Brace
"Why ride a stang when birds can fly?"
http://www.geocities.com/thegta
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1988 GTA 5.7L TPI Auto
355 ci. block, SLP Cold Air Intake w/ K&N, fully modified MAF Sensor, TPIS 52mm Throttle Body w/Air Foil, Fully Ported and Polished Plenum, Nikel-plated Ported SLP Siamesed Runners, Ported TPIS Big Mouth Intake Manifold, stock heads w/ 1.52 Comp Cams Self-aligning Roller Rockers, TPIS ZZ-9 Roller Camshaft, TPIS Valve Springs, Cloyes True Double Roller Timing Chain, TPIS Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Ford Motorsports SVO 30 lb/hr Fuel Injectors, MSD 6AL, Taylor 10mm Wires, Bosch Platinum +4 Spark Plugs, MSD Blaster Coil, MSD Shift Light, March Underdrive Pulleys, 6 3/4" Vibratech Streetdamper, TPIS Level 4 PROM, 160 T-stat, Low Temp. Fan Switch, Stock Distributor w/ Bronze Gear, SLP 1 3/4" Headers, Random Technologies High Flow Cat., Adjustable Borla Cat Back Exhaust, Flow Tech Pre-Cat 3" Exhaust Cut Off, ZR1 Heated O2 Sensor, Level 10 PTS-3 700R4 Trans, B&M Holeshot 2400 Stall Converter, B&M Trans Cooler, TCI Aluminum Finned Trans Pan, Torque Converter Lock Up Switch, 3" Balanced Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.73 Richmond Gears, Auburn Pro-Series Differential, Aluminum Differential Cover w/ Main Cap Preloads, BF Goodrich Drag Radials 255/50 R16, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, Hotchkis Panhard Rod, Hotchkis Tie Rod Adjuster Sleeves, Bilstein Heavy Duty Shocks and Struts, 1LE Springs, Energy Suspension Polyeurethane Bushings, Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors, Global West Steering Box Brace, HP Motorsports 3 Point Strut Tower Brace
"Why ride a stang when birds can fly?"
http://www.geocities.com/thegta
#6
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Cut them lengthwise along the nipple with a razor blade, and throw them away. Any money you think you will save by re-using them will be lost when they burst from old age and you lose all your anti-freeze. Why leave a bomb under your hood like old hoses when you're replacing what they hook up to? Both hoses together will be less than $5.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
#7
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Ok well I tried pulling and prying with a screwdriver but they just wouldn't budge. So I cut one off, but the second one looks tricky. The hose goes down underneath everything and disappears. I dont know where it comes back up or how to route it through. Can someone tell me it's route? The hose I'm talking about is the one closest to the engine. The other one is a snap, it just goes straight back.
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