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belts squealing

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Old Mar 15, 2001 | 06:43 PM
  #1  
JDMZ28's Avatar
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From: Michigan
Car: 2KGTP
Engine: supercharged 3800 L67
Transmission: 4T65E
Axle/Gears: 2.93
belts squealing

This for the 87' T/A with V-belts.

Damn belts. When I am driving with the heat on my belts like to squeal. They are fine in normal driving, only when the heat is on they like to do it. Could I need new ones? The outer one going around the powersteering is kind of loose but there is no way in hell to get it tight. Why when the heat is on? Does it put more tension on the a/c compressor? The one around there is tight. I'm getting tired of having to turn the heat off at a light and then turning it back on when I get up to speed.

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1986 CAMARO Z28 ->
151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, B&M Ripper shifter, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframe connectors, all bushings are urethane, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.22@ 106.4MPH 3300lbs less driver and speakers Next mods-> Extreme Energy 268 cam, Holley street dom intake.

1987 TRANS AM ->
73,000 miles, 305TPI, auto, gutted air box.

[This message has been edited by JDMZ28 (edited March 15, 2001).]
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Old Mar 15, 2001 | 07:04 PM
  #2  
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If it is only the heat (not Bi-Level or Defrost) the AC compressor should not be operating. This almost rules out the AC belt. If the fan is on, this places additional load on the alternator. With the engine at low speed, the load is even greater. I would check the alternator belt (the only poly-V belt on the engine) for glazing and contamination. Clean the alternator, water pump, and crank sheaves with a wire brush and replace the belt if necessary.

You should also inspect the 'V' belts for cracks, drying, glazing, and wear. Clean the sheaves with a ScotchBrite pad and replace the belts if necessary. If the belts haven't been changed in a few years of 30,000 miles, you're overdue anyway.

Incidentally, I might be wrong, but I think your alternator belt is a Dayco 5PK1140 (GM 14088681), and the other 37° 'V' belts are Air Pump - 15330 (GM 14091516) .38X33.0"; P/S - 15400 (GM 14033905) .38X40.0"; A/C - 15550 (GM 14081276) .38X55.5"

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited March 15, 2001).]
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Old Mar 15, 2001 | 07:12 PM
  #3  
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Right... Bi-level and Defrost run the A/C.

You can tighten the PS-only belt quite tight if you loosen the A/C one, loosen all the PS hardware (3 adjusters and one pivot), pry on the little stuck-out lip of the front PS pump bracket right by its front adjuster bolt with a tire iron or something similar wedged against the little round "tower"-looking boss on the front of the water pump, and tighten one of the nuts on the back of the pump when you get the belt tensioned. DO NOT under any circumstances pry on the sheet-metal reservoir of the PS pump, you will cause the pump to spring a huge leak where it fits into the reservoir.

Alternator belt should be a 15445 or 15450(15/32" wide at the top by 44.5" or 45.0" long)

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited March 15, 2001).]
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