whats the proper procedure for setting the total timing i put the timing tape on the balancer and well....now what? i know you need to rev it to about 3000 rpms to advance it out,also how do you know how much vac. advacnce your engine needs?? how do you adjust the advance unit and stiil time it??

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89 firebird formula

356 10.5:1compression
comp cams xe262 cam
performer rpm intake
#1405 edlebrock 600
sportsman 2 heads 64cc 2.02/1.60 valves 200cc intake runner
msd 6al
h.e.i. proform 50,000 volt vac. advance ditributor
700r-4 with 3.08 first gear and 3.23 posi 7 5/8 rear end.
b trans shift kit(will kill shifts...suck dong!!)
shorty heddman hedders with custom 3" pipe y-pipe back(no damn cat!) with 40 series flowmaster!


future mods: 406 roller REALLY REALLY REALLY RADICAL!!!!!

 

If you have the Profoem HEI like I do, it will defiantly need to be recurved.
Un-plug the distributor advance and set it up to around 8 degrees. You need the Crane adjustable canister, set it up to 10. The Proform HEI has 20 in the canister. Set it at 8 degrees at idle,then when you add the canister back on, it should pull to 18. 8+10 degrees.
Then have the distributor setup to have mechanical to match your motor. So you have as much advance either vacuum, or mechanical as your motor can. most shops will re-curve your distributor for about $40 for your setup. I would only go to a shop that has a distributor machine.That way you know they are true at what they do.

Good luck!

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350 4 bolt main, Speed-O-Motive 383 stroker kit, re-sized rods ground for clearance,TRW Forged pistons,10.7:1 compression,HPC Coated RPM intake, Speed Demon 750 cfm carb,World Products Sportsman II heads,2.02/1.60 valves, Comp Cam 1.6 roller rockers, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,240/246@.050 with .540 lift,Crane pushrods,ATI damper,Proform HEI and MSD6A box,HPC coated 1 5/8 headers, 2.5" exhaust with 40 series mufflers,TH350 with B&M 3000 stall, Powertrax NoSlip Locker, 4.11 gears.

 

Polecat: I know I'm going to show my lack of knowledge in asking this question, but anyways...
I notice that next to your tranny type TH350 is says B&M 3000 Stall. I keep hearing about stall stuff for transmissions but nobody's ever told me what it does and why it's good!

Okay, if it's too stupid of a question you can just ignore it!

 

Auto trannies have whats called torque converters instead of clutches, instead of a clutch which is either engaged or not, a torque converter is designed to slip when the revs a below it's "stall" speed, then grip more strongly when the engine revs up.
Polecat's 3000 stall converter means that his converter will slip (but still move the car slightly) until the engine hits ~3000rpm where the torque converter will more fully engage. This is the same as dumping the clutch in a manual at 3000rpm, it gets you into the powerband faster.
stock stall speeds are generally 1200-1800rpm
you can notice this if you punch the gas and watch the tach, you will see the revs jump to ~1200 then the car will take off.

hope that helps

 

jer, that was way better than I could have said. Exactly!

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350 4 bolt main, Speed-O-Motive 383 stroker kit, re-sized rods ground for clearance,TRW Forged pistons,10.7:1 compression,HPC Coated RPM intake, Speed Demon 750 cfm carb,World Products Sportsman II heads,2.02/1.60 valves, Comp Cam 1.6 roller rockers, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,240/246@.050 with .540 lift,Crane pushrods,ATI damper,Proform HEI and MSD6A box,HPC coated 1 5/8 headers, 2.5" exhaust with 40 series mufflers,TH350 with B&M 3000 stall, Powertrax NoSlip Locker, 4.11 gears.

 

The "total" advance you're always hearing about is the total "mechanical" advance. This is the "power" setting for WOT operation. In this mode, you will have/want zero vacuum advance. Therefore, before you set your "total" timing, disconnect and plug the vacuum advance.

Adjust the vacuum advance (assuming it is adjustable) after the total is set for max advance w/o pinging at load & partial throttle.

An alternative to reving the engine up is to remove the advance springs and start the car up - without the springs, the weights will swing out to full advance, and you can set the timing at idle. After it's set, shut it off, reinstall the springs, and you're ready to go. Saves trying to rev the engine, hold a timing light, and move the distributor all at the same time (you kinda run out of hands). Then, you can check the advance vs. RPMs or advance curve (the real value of the timing tape). Without the vacuum attached, of course.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, TBD heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

Oooohhhh... thanks, Jer82Z28!