heres my compression tester....now how do i use it???
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
heres my compression tester....now how do i use it???
i want/need to check my compression and have a compression tester but no instructions...........do i just go to each cylinder with it? also do i need to start the car and keep it running for a certian amount of time and what should my compression be at for a 166xxx miles 305TPI???
thanks guys
thanks guys
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Take all your plugs out; disconnect power to the distributor; block the throttle wide open; and put it in a cylinder. Have somebody crank the motor with the starter. Watch the gauge; you'll see it go up in pulses; after about 4 or 5 pulses it'll stop going up; that's the number you want. Record it, then push the little button to let the pressure out, hook it up to the next cyl, and repeat.
I don't see a hose or fittings, you'll need those.
I don't see a hose or fittings, you'll need those.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
or,,,,As for the compression test, you first run all the cylinders in the normal fashion (all plugs out, coil disabled, choke and throttle held full open, crank each cylinder until max pressure reached, record each cylinder's pressure, etc.). That's the dry test. Then, you put a tablespoon or so of oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes, turn the engine over a few times to spread it around the cylinder, and then repeat the compression test. If the rings are worn, the oil will tend to enhance the seal and raise the compression pressure significantly from the dry test. You have to do both in order for the wet test to have any meaning. If the dry test numbers are close cylinder-to-cylinder and where they should be (say 150 psi), and no significant change to the dry test, then everything's fine. If the dry test is low and the wet test is low, then you have valve sealing problems.
Per 5-7kid
Per 5-7kid
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,096
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by RB83L69
Take all your plugs out; disconnect power to the distributor; block the throttle wide open; and put it in a cylinder. Have somebody crank the motor with the starter. Watch the gauge; you'll see it go up in pulses; after about 4 or 5 pulses it'll stop going up; that's the number you want. Record it, then push the little button to let the pressure out, hook it up to the next cyl, and repeat.
I don't see a hose or fittings, you'll need those.
Take all your plugs out; disconnect power to the distributor; block the throttle wide open; and put it in a cylinder. Have somebody crank the motor with the starter. Watch the gauge; you'll see it go up in pulses; after about 4 or 5 pulses it'll stop going up; that's the number you want. Record it, then push the little button to let the pressure out, hook it up to the next cyl, and repeat.
I don't see a hose or fittings, you'll need those.
I've always done one at a time (leaving the remaining plugs in) and replaing the plug after each tested cyl.
What do you think the differences are between the way I did it, and the way you proposed ?
And the reason I searched this, is because after about 20 1/4 passes, my car has a horrid skip now. Think I broke something

-- Joe
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
If you leave the other plugs in, all you accomplish, is to make it harder for the starter to turn the motor over; which introduces an element of incosistency to the results. That's why you're supposed to take all the plugs out, and why it's wrong to do it that way.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,096
Likes: 126
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by RB83L69
If you leave the other plugs in, all you accomplish, is to make it harder for the starter to turn the motor over; which introduces an element of incosistency to the results. That's why you're supposed to take all the plugs out, and why it's wrong to do it that way.
If you leave the other plugs in, all you accomplish, is to make it harder for the starter to turn the motor over; which introduces an element of incosistency to the results. That's why you're supposed to take all the plugs out, and why it's wrong to do it that way.
Do you think there would be a considerable difference in the psi between tests? Unfortunately, I have a log book of test results with the other method, so if I do a test tonight i'd like to know if my results differ because of a mechanical problem, or because of a difference in testing method?
-- Joe
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