A/C acting on its own?
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
A/C acting on its own?
Ok, I posted something similar to this before, but I think its a completely different issue now. I recently noticed that my A/C compressor has been turning itself on and off regularly. It'll be off for about 15-20 seconds, then it'll turn itself on for about 10-15 seconds. No A/C blows out my vents, its just the compressor kicking on. Now I'm not sure if this is normal or not, for I never noticed it before, but then again I never really payed any attention to it. So it that OK? I KNOW this is hurting my performance, cuz I can feel the lag when it kicks on, so right there it's pissing me off, but I know it's hurting potential fuel economy as well. If this IS abnormal, anyone know how to fix it? Is there maybe a way to override the compressor temporarily when I'm at the dragstrip to make sure that doesn't happen? ANY help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
Bruce (90RS305)
Bruce (90RS305)
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Car: 91 Z28, 89 Formula, 85 IROC Z28
Engine: 305 TPI, 305 TBI, 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed, 5 Speed, 700R4
Low on Freon???
My car does this too. As near as I can tell, the cause is that it is low on freon in the a/c system. This is probably bad. If the situation is not taken care of, the compressor could be damaged, and you could even lock up. This could take out the belt, which would possibly leave you stranded.
You should be able to disconnect the compressor electrical connector and it will stop. Also don't use the a/c or defroster settings and it should never try to engage the compressor in the first place.
Since mine is a "toy" car, I don't drive it much and I don't plan to fix it. In fact, I plan to remove the a/c completely.
You should be able to disconnect the compressor electrical connector and it will stop. Also don't use the a/c or defroster settings and it should never try to engage the compressor in the first place.
Since mine is a "toy" car, I don't drive it much and I don't plan to fix it. In fact, I plan to remove the a/c completely.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Hmm...it better not be low on freon, I JUST HAD THE WHOLE SYSTEM REPLACED when I got it! That would SUCK! And I actually rarely use my A/C, I just assume cruise around with the windows open, but it still does it!
Bruce (90RS305)
Bruce (90RS305)
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Sounds like a bad wiring connection to me. Your compressor shouldnt be engaging at all until you turn your a/c on. Then if it IS low on freon it will cycle RAPIDLY..like 1-2 seconds between engaged and disengaged. 10-15 second cycling is normal for operating a/c. So for some reason your compressor is operating when your switch is off....so find out why. Take it back, tell em about it
Junior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 35
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From: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Car: 91 Z28, 89 Formula, 85 IROC Z28
Engine: 305 TPI, 305 TBI, 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed, 5 Speed, 700R4
You should be able to get a quick reading on this by using the vent or heat setting on heat controls, or turn it to off. If this "fixes" the problem, then it is quite likely freon.
I feel your pain on the fixing of the a/c. That is why I'm not fixing mine. Way too expensive for how much I drive the car. I'm also looking at some other mods and I'm wanting to clean as much unneeded stuff out from under the hood as I can.
Also as a note, even when the a/c is working perfectly it takes power when it is on. I would always make sure you use a setting that leaves the compressor off when trying for that all out performance.
I feel your pain on the fixing of the a/c. That is why I'm not fixing mine. Way too expensive for how much I drive the car. I'm also looking at some other mods and I'm wanting to clean as much unneeded stuff out from under the hood as I can.
Also as a note, even when the a/c is working perfectly it takes power when it is on. I would always make sure you use a setting that leaves the compressor off when trying for that all out performance.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
I know the A/C takes power from the car when it's on, that why I want it off! So from what I'm gathering if I have my system set to "HEAT" then my compressor should not turn on at all? (FYI = heater does not work either, which needs to be fixed before winter, too) And if that happens, then it IS freon? Unfortunatly I couldn't take it back for a free fix, I got it replaced in July of 02'.
On that note, could I potentialy remove the wireing connection (pictured below) from the A/C compressor without it throwing up the SES light? And would it effect my computer adversly? If not I could use that as a temporary fix at the dragstrip...
Bruce (90RS305)
On that note, could I potentialy remove the wireing connection (pictured below) from the A/C compressor without it throwing up the SES light? And would it effect my computer adversly? If not I could use that as a temporary fix at the dragstrip...
Bruce (90RS305)
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From: Bonner Springs, KS
Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
You could also remove the electrical connector on the back of the accumulator (clutch cycling switch)..
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It shouldn't be coming on with the selector set to "heat" or "vent", or "off" (duh).
It should come on in all other positions, including "defrost".
It cycles because it's low of Freon.
I highly recommend keeping the A/C on and working. The amount of power that it uses when not turned on is negligible; and working A/C is worth a considerable difference to the resale value. Not to mention your own comfort, if you ever drive to, or move to, a plcae where it's hotter. Plus, it would be kind of dumb to spend all that money on replacing the whole thing as you describe, and then let it decay again.
The system as used in these cars leaks slightly, always. It's unfortunate but true. Even the rubber the hoses are made out of, is permeable by the Freon molecules; so a few molecules will be constantly escaping. The newer "barrier" type hose with a polyethylene liner doesn't leak anywhere near as much, but your OE hose isn't that type. They usually leak about one can every 12 to 24 months. You can probably get it back happy again just by replenishing it.
It should come on in all other positions, including "defrost".
It cycles because it's low of Freon.
I highly recommend keeping the A/C on and working. The amount of power that it uses when not turned on is negligible; and working A/C is worth a considerable difference to the resale value. Not to mention your own comfort, if you ever drive to, or move to, a plcae where it's hotter. Plus, it would be kind of dumb to spend all that money on replacing the whole thing as you describe, and then let it decay again.
The system as used in these cars leaks slightly, always. It's unfortunate but true. Even the rubber the hoses are made out of, is permeable by the Freon molecules; so a few molecules will be constantly escaping. The newer "barrier" type hose with a polyethylene liner doesn't leak anywhere near as much, but your OE hose isn't that type. They usually leak about one can every 12 to 24 months. You can probably get it back happy again just by replenishing it.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Thanks, that about summed up what I was looking for. I did have the ENTIRE system, tank/hoses/compressor and all, replaced the week I bought the car. So roughly the week of July 7th, 2002. I did a lil' experiment last night and the compressor STILL kicked on while it was in the "HEAT" position. What does that mean? Also I had another problem that I didn't think was an issue, but maybe I was wrong...Sometimes when I have the A/C on (or anything other than OFF for that matter) when I turn it off it doesn't turn off, it just re-directs the air towards my feet. I have to keep sliding the selector back and forth a few times before it'll go. Could that have anything to do with it?
*EDIT* How hard would it be to pull the selector unit out of a junker and replace the one in my car, if maybe thats the problem...?
Bruce (90RS305)
*EDIT* How hard would it be to pull the selector unit out of a junker and replace the one in my car, if maybe thats the problem...?
Bruce (90RS305)
Last edited by 90RS305; May 12, 2004 at 01:16 PM.
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
That does sound like your control panel is fornicated.
THey're pretty easy to change out: there's about 2 or 3 electric connectors, the one big vacuum "plug" with about 5 or 6 vacuum lines going to it, and the heat door cable which just unclips.
THey're pretty easy to change out: there's about 2 or 3 electric connectors, the one big vacuum "plug" with about 5 or 6 vacuum lines going to it, and the heat door cable which just unclips.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Groovy. I'll do that before I go and spend $19357031 on a pound of R-12.
If not, ohh well...
If not, ohh well... Originally posted by Nixon1
.....Then if it IS low on freon it will cycle RAPIDLY..like 1-2 seconds between engaged and disengaged. 10-15 second cycling is normal for operating a/c.......
.....Then if it IS low on freon it will cycle RAPIDLY..like 1-2 seconds between engaged and disengaged. 10-15 second cycling is normal for operating a/c.......
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
THAT long? Hmm.....news to me. Both my Camaro and my Mustang had roughly 15-25 second cycling... Course I dont have the Camaro now and the Mustang, I KNOW it has a slow freon leak. But it only leaks when I use it, which isnt often. So why fix something that I use once a month or less anyways.
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