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any method for locking out advance on a vacuum advance HEI?

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Old May 14, 2004 | 03:30 AM
  #1  
ChrisFormula355's Avatar
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From: Tucson,AZ,USA
Car: Junk
Engine: Junk with nitrous
Transmission: Junk with gears
any ******* method for locking out advance on a vacuum advance HEI?

This is on my firebird....NOT a daily driver, I want to lock the timing out to 37, don't feel like buying another distributor...any ideas?? I was thinking some really REALLY stiff springs on the weights, but even then there's a chance at 7,000 rpms its going to move out.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 05:06 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
i'd say do a search under your user name and see what responses you got the last time you ask
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Old May 14, 2004 | 11:21 AM
  #3  
si_camaro's Avatar
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From: England UK
Car: 85 Z28
Engine: LG4 modified
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by ede
i'd say do a search under your user name and see what responses you got the last time you ask
Thanks ed, I'll never get the coffee out of my keyboard
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Old May 14, 2004 | 07:26 PM
  #4  
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
here's my "*******" method.

Remove the rotor, weights and springs. Tie the advance mechanism fully advanced using two small plastic electrical tie wraps. make sure the knot of the tie wraps faces down under the mechanical advance plate so that the rotor can be reinstalled.
The timing will be very advanced now so crank the distributor back some and fire the motor and reset the timing to what ever you want.

Worked for me........
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Old May 14, 2004 | 08:37 PM
  #5  
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From: Southwest Chicago 'burbs
The manual for my holley annihilator ignition system said that you can buy special lockout kits, or if you cannot find any, to weld the weights in the full out position.

Why do you want to lock it to 37d?
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Old May 14, 2004 | 09:33 PM
  #6  
AM Racer's Avatar
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From: Northern Illinois
Remove the weights put the springs back.
With no weight to push, nuttin' happens.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 09:48 PM
  #7  
scottland's Avatar
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350HO
Transmission: M4
Originally posted by AM Racer
Remove the weights put the springs back.
With no weight to push, nuttin' happens.
exactly what i was thinking.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 09:50 PM
  #8  
THEGENERAL's Avatar
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
why wouldnt you want any advance ???
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Old May 15, 2004 | 07:22 PM
  #9  
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Originally posted by thegeneral
why wouldnt you want any advance ???

On a race car with a very radical camshaft the motor wants a lot of timing at idle. The EGR effect of a long overlap cam slows the burn rate of the fuel so much at idle and low rpm that in order to burn the fuel by the time the exhaust valve opens the ignition needs to occur very early BTDC. Therefore a mechanical advance curve is not nessessary.
Unless you run lots of initial advance at idle, a big cammed motor will run hot and cough and spit when the throttle opens.
The slow burn heats the cylinder walls.

Makes the starter motor labour during cranking when the motor is hot but opening the throttle during cranking helps.
If the car is street driven than you can retain the vacuum advance for efficient cruising.

Some electronic ignition boxes (ignition retard) have a crank retard function built in to aleviate the hot cranking problem.
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