Hi guys, this question may have been answered already but i didn't find the answer when i did the search. I have a 5.7 engine.
I'm not sure what flywheel came with the engine.The 153 tooth or the 168, i had the engine rebuilt. the mechanic gave me a new
flywheel for the engine,it's a 153 tooth. i bought a new mini starter for it. the flywheel does'nt come in contact with the new starter.So i think that i need the 168. I thought the 168 was only for big blocks. am i wrong?

 

First off manual trans cars have Flywheels... and on an automatic it is referred to as a flex plate. Assuming you have an automatic... you would require a 153 tooth flexplate. I would say that you have the wrong starter... as opposed to the wrong flywheel.

 

Thanks Johnyiroc,
I've always wondered what was the difference in a flywheel
and a flex plate. So i have the wrong starter huh? (thats a bummer)I paid a 100 bucks for that starter! The 153 tooth flex
plate comes up short about an inch, so going to a 168 tooth won't
solve my problem? I would hate to have to buy another mini starter. although i'm just now installing the starter I bought it over a year ago. I don't think the guy i bought it from will exchange it for me.But i'll ask. I saw some flex plates in the JEGS
catalog, some were only 68 dollars or so. Others were close to 200 dollars. What's the difference?

 

Oh yeah, anyone else, please feel free to respond.I welcome all
oppinions.
thanks guys, Big John

 

I was checking out your post so what did you do?

I have the same problem right now and the parts place cant find one to fit.

 

Get a 168 tooth and put it together. The difference with the flexpaltes is more than likely one is a stock replacement and the others are SFI approved. THe SFI units usually have thicker material for the center peice and have more welds to keep the tooth ring attached to the center.

Imagine using a transbrake set at 4K and releasing all that energy into a stock flexplate...shatter city.

 

Not necessarily. If he has an older style engine, like a 2 pc rms, it will require a 168 tooth flexplate.

 

yes this is correct we know for a fact dont we...LOL ....been there done that not doing it again...

 

nothing will **** you off quicker than leaning in to hit the key for the first time on a new engine, and hearing it spin free. Ahhh.

 

that SHOULD never happen...

since you're supposed to check the gear pattern and all before you try to start it.

plus its off by about a inch, how could you NOT notice?

 

No, that's not true. I have just such a car sitting in my driveway right now.... 78 El Camino, 305, 12.8" flex plate.

I'd recommend getting the right starter for the smaller flex plate that you now have; and sell the starter you have. Should bring most of that $100 back to you. This time, get one of the starters that has the bolt holes for both mounting locations. The smaller flex plate will mount the starter that much closer to the center of the motor, leaving more clearance to headers.

 

Summit has one made by powermaster that will work and it has a nose cone instead of the race type exposed. It is on order hope that it works. For $200 I only get a 1 year warranty. The auto value brand was 150 and 10 year warranty, but it was the wrong one.

 

Depends on what bolts up. on my engine you cant bolt the starter for the 153 tooth flexplate, because it is too old, doesnt have the right hole. He needs to check before he buys anything. Find out which starter bolts up and then get the new flexplate to match.

 

You're right, that should never happen. But being a smart-*** on the internet isnt gonna change anything.

 

Yes indeed, there is that..... blocks made before about 77 or so, won't have that hole. For one of those you'd have to either change the flex plate to the 14" one, or add the hole.

 

Exactly what I was saying above. I didnt have the luxury of just changing starters, I had to change flexplates.

 

I was lucky the new block (1pc rms) has 3 holes that uses either the straight or the offset starter!

 

my old 010 block has 3 holes too. for the strait or offset bolts. The difference is the inside one, I believe isn't far enough inside. Thats the one that has to be drilled and tapped.

 

i'll rephrase.

to keep from tearing up your engines ring gear, especially with a aftermarket starter, you need to check how the gears mesh.



and i disagree on your second point. being a smartass on the internet amuses me. me being amused releases more endorphins to my brain, making me happier. me being in a good lets me work on my car better.

so you see, im only being a smartass to you to help me work on my car. its for the good of a thirdgen. therefore, relevant to the site.

:lala:

 

I'll give you that one, only because it is one of the funniest explanations I have heard.

 

thanks.

and that should say good mood.... heh. ah well... me being in a good are sound goodish enough.

 

well yes being a smart *** is a very fun way of making yourself feel better but it can also make you look like a total *** instead of a smart ***..LOL.....

 

What's up guys,
man, i didn't know that there was so many responses to my question. I posted this question some time ago back in May i believe. thanks for all of your replys.
even though the engine is still not in the car, here's what i did.
I ordered a 168 tooth FLEX PLATE from JEGS. Turns out that i ordered the wrong one,(got the one for a 400 engine) so i sent it back and got the one for a small block 350. I installed it on the engine, and it looks like it's gonna work perfectly.
I just bought a used 700r4 tranny for it. So maybe i'll finnally have this car running soon.
(by the way, if anyone need a 153 tooth flex plate i have one for cheap) thanks again, Big John

 

smart ***
dumb ***
jack ***
or just plain ***.

at one point in time ive been accused of them all.
i really dont worry too much about it, i kinda follow the words of what a Eleanor Roosevelt once said:

Nobody can make you feel inferior without your permission. --Eleanor Roosevelt

 

hey me too we do have something in common ...LMAO