My car has two throttle positions. Idle, and WOT. My WOT is absolutely perfect. Idle is great. If I try to use part throttle, I bog and sometimes die. I can hear a lot of hissing air from 2500-3200 rpms. Once I get above 3200 the air doesn't seem to hiss anymore and the car accelerates decently. At rpms < 2500 the car surges.

Vacuum leak? My PCV is hooked up correctly. My right vacuum goes to my vacuum advance on the distributor and the hose is fine. My left vacuum is blocked off. My rear vacuum goes to the brake booster.

I can't find a problem

Any ideas?

Oh, another weird thing. My "choke" light flashes on and off. What the hell? I do not have a computer.

L69, Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock Carter AFB 1405 carb.

 

Choke light ahh, pull it out.
I noticed when i used to run edelbrocks that i would always have to tune them for the specific vehical. you should go out and buy a tuning kit for your aplication or might get away with a spring kit. I had the same problem before with my truck it would surge at 40 mph light crusing. Change the srings to 1 size bigger this should keep it from surging. if that dont work use the book that came with the carb and run thier recomended 4% richer for primaries.

 

He said it was an aftermarket carb. It should not be hooked up to the light.



[This message has been edited by Matt84TA&#32 (edited March 24, 2001).]

 

Correct. The choke light should not even flash as the aftermarket carb has a seperate choke system.

I have the tuning kit, and the carb is tuned perfectly. WOT works great. Idling is great. This is not a rod/jet problem.

I did try all the springs and the 3" mercury works the best. As you go up, the problem intensifies.

 

"I ment pull the light out of the dash "
The light will come on when the key is turrned to the start posistion or the car stalls.
Odd ive always done that and it fixes them.
what rod/jet set are you using?

 

Oh, I am sorry. I thought you were saying something else

Jet: 0.89 primary, 0.98 secondary.
Rod: 0.73 x 0.52
Spring: blue (3" Hg)

I moved the accelerator to "max squirt" and that helped the surging a little bit. However, if I use the brakes and let off the gas it'll sometimes afterfire very sharply.

When I'm driving along 2000-3500rpms (if you want to call it driving, lol) I get little backfire sparking through the carb.

Timing IS set correctly. I am positive.

 

Chooke light in this situation has nothing to do with the choke, unless the OE electric choke wire is loose and shorting to the motor or something. That light is also the "Alternator" light, due to a little bit of over-zealous elegance in the engineering dept. The choke and the alt are wired in such a way that the choke does not get power unless the alt is suplying output, thus keeping the choke from draining the battery or being falsely heated when the car is sitting still with the key on. That part is cool. But the light is another matter entirely.

Let's see... I have these 2 engine parts, one in each hand, ... choke, alternator, choke, alternator.... yeah!!! these are almost exactly the same thing!!! I'll just confuse the hell out of everybody that ever has to deal with one of these cars, and make this important indicator light completely indecipherable!!! Gee Boss, can I have a raise for that blinding flash of genius?

Idiot.

Anyway, check your other choke... the one with the belt and the little fan in the front, that's supposed to be charging your battery.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

How about a ruptured diaphram in the vacuum canister for the distributor advance or brake booster........hmmmmmmmm!

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84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

 

Probably the OE wire, actually. Dumbass Previous Owner just cut wires randomly and other assorted stupid ****

The alternator is brand new, and the light flickers and does weird **** like a short.

I am starting to believe it is the brake booster diaphram as the distrib is new.

 

Another vote for the brake booster. Sometimes randomly my brakes get very stiff like a ... broken brake booster! heh. So I'll change that out and see what happens The sound is definitely coming from that area.

 

i vote for a ripped vacum advace canaster diaphram

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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops

Curent: 350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast
Spring 01: 406, Comp 282 solid cam, 2400 stall converter, every thing else the same.

R.I.P #3

 

ok part of the problem lies in the fact that you have the jets backwards!! on afb's and edle's (weber carbs!) the jets are "supossed to be" larger in the front! i have that very carb, try going back to the stock jetting it "should" fix the problem. the correct jetting and rods are:

1405: man choke!

.100 primary .95 secondary jets.

.70x.047 rods.

orange 5"hg springs.


this is the problem!! my frined has a 400 and tried that very idea and it was to get better fuel milage!! it ended up with the same problems your having i'm telling you switch to these(stock jettings!) and it'll fix most of your problems!!

email me whne you complete this i dont remember where i have been on these boards all the time!!



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89 firebird formula

356 10.5:1compression
comp cams xe262 cam
performer rpm intake
#1405 edlebrock 600
sportsman 2 heads 64cc 2.02/1.60 valves 200cc intake runner
msd 6al
h.e.i. proform 50,000 volt vac. advance ditributor
700r-4 with 3.08 first gear and 3.23 posi 7 5/8 rear end.
b trans shift kit(will kill shifts...suck dong!!)
shorty heddman hedders with custom 3" pipe y-pipe back(no damn cat!) with 40 series flowmaster!


future mods: 406 roller REALLY REALLY REALLY RADICAL!!!!!