I have an intermitent power window that only works when I let it rest. It has also blown a fusable link in the car and would continue to do so if I don't fix it. Here's the question - Is the special "circuit breaker" type thing that keeps the motor from burning out IN the motor?? I'm assuming that this is what is causing the problem and I'm asking because I don't want to have to take out the whole assembly if I can just replace the motor. I'd rather just drill the motor rivets out by going through the inner door panel and not have to mess with the gears or springs etc... Thanks.

------------------
88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off
My Formula

All your base are belong to us.

 

come on....

 

There's a really good tech article on this. Check it out...

 

No to sound like a jerk, but I already did check it out. It didn't specify where the fuse/breaker thing was. Thanks though.

I also went to the parts store to see if they had a motor. Of course, no one buys them anymore, so they stopped stocking them and if I order it the motor is rebuilt, not new. I want a new one with a lifetime warranty.

------------------
88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off
My Formula

All your base are belong to us.

 

bttt...

 

Don't know about the fusible link...but I do know the reason why your window motor is "intermittent" is because of its internal components. There is no way to fix it...just replace it. A new one from NAPA will cost you about $70. The only problem I had was that I couldn't find a big enough rivet gun and I had to pay a friend at the glass shop a 6-pack to rivet it for me.

------------------
92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
SLP 1 3/4" Headers (Coated by Paul Barry Motorsports), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Fastchip Performance PROM, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Xact 8mm wires, Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, Edelbrock performer intake

 

Also, you can't just replace the motor while it is in the car because there is a heavy actuator spring connected to it. You have to remove the entire assembly out of the car to replace the motor

 

so... is the breaker type component in the motor? I know that has to be replaced to fix my problem and if it's in the motor then, yes I'll replace the motor. That's my question - is this protecting breaker thing in the motor??

I have read in other posts that if you just drill out access holes where the motor rivets to the rest of the assembly, you can take just the motor out. To keep everything from flying out you can just prop the window up. We'll see if it works.

------------------
88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off
My Formula

All your base are belong to us.

 

Nothing ever "flies out". As long as the window glass is still in the door, its weight approximately counterbalances the spring.

Like the others said, drill or chisel the rivets, and the motor will fall out. Problem is, the 3 rivets you need to drill, that hold the motor itself to the bracket it lives on, are behind the main piece of sheet metal that makes the inside of the door. They put the car together in a different order from how you have to repair it. If you look around the back side of the motor with an inspection mirror, you'll see the rivets; drill three holes in the inner door skin, thn you can get to them.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

The Breaker is internal.

EVERY auto parts store should have those motors. That same motor is in every 80's GM car, and a bunch of 90's cars.

I wrote the tech article on the power windows. For the life of me I can't remember why I didn't write about just drilling the motor rivets. Belive me, I would have done it that way if I could, maybe I didn't wanna drill through the door shell, hell I dunno.

If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me.

macgyver@nethirdgen.org

 

Thank you Macgyver! I'll have to try Napa or something.

------------------
88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off
My Formula

All your base are belong to us.

 

Check this file for complete directions:

Power Window Motor Repair.pdf

You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view/print the file.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Thanks. I know my window doesn't have any excessive load and it was working great before I had this problem so I think something is wrong internally with the regulator (which is what I'm assuming blew my fusable link). I was looking at the motor and it's already been replaced atleast once. I'm not sure what it was replaced with though so it could just be a crappy part.

------------------
88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off
My Formula

All your base are belong to us.