I'm uhhh..inclined to..but it looks a bit risky. I was wondering if anyone has any experience or pointers. Getting it back together would be nice too

I'm having to do some fabricating to get all my accesories to clear on my twin turbo setup. It'd make my life alot easier if I could get the stock tentioner to pull upwards, instead of down. I'm hoping I can take it apart, reverse thespring, and reassemble. But...I'm not sure about the saftey issue

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

the only people that have never lived to tell about it. it believe it's not servicable.

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1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

btt

 

never taken one apart.. but seen many explode in to many little pieces.. here's the good new though.. In my years as a "parts-specialist" along with those as a "technician"(not ASE certified, that's why the quotations, I mearly worked under a Master Tech.) I have noticed that damn near ALL GM tensioners are held on by ONE bolt of THE SAME SIZE. In addition they also have ONE little dowel that positively locates their position prior to tightening down said bolt. Now i'm posting this without actually going outside to make sure the 3rd gens are the same way.. and potentially making an *** of myself, but oh well. In anycase, if i'm right, I would suggest heading to a boneyard.. and looking at the various tensioners and their opperational direction.. mounting and so on.. finding one that you think will meet your needs, and writing down it's Year/Make/Model/Engine Size/AC or not.. heading down to your local parts store. buying a tensioner for THAT vehicle, and then try to put it on your car.. if it doesn't work return the part. Good luck.


Anthony

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previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.

Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 74k miles.

 

Hmm..oh realy Rag'n...all the same size....
hehe I just might try that. don;t worry..I won't hold it against ya if your wrong thanks for the tip

SO you just remove that bolt and the assembly comes of in one piece? I was afraid that was holding it together...

[This message has been edited by Jester (edited April 15, 2001).]

 

(Hey, Ed. I'm still alive!)

Jester,

NOTE: I know you are a more accomplished mechanic, but use the following at your own discretion. I'm not advocating disassembly of the tensioner since there is some inherent danger, but it can be done. I did it once on a dead unit just to see what's involved. For the cost of the replacements, it might not be worth repairing, but I was curious about the unit. I figured it was trashed anyway, so I had little to lose but time (and possibly an eye). I ended up replacing the bearing and installing a new fabricated anchor pin for the stop, and reused it for about another 50,000 miles. If you do it, at the very least use safety glasses.


You can disassemble the unit, but you must relieve the spring tension first (or actually, as you disassemble it). There is a stop pin cast into the assembly that prevents the tensioner from "un-pivoting" all the way and completely releasing the spring tension. As the locknut on the rear of the pivot shaft is removed, the front (moveable) half will tend to move away from the rear half under the force of the spring. As soon as the front half clears the anchor pin, it's off to the races, unwinding a few turns until the spring is relaxed. I did mine a bit more slowly and controlled, and mounted the assembly in a bench vise to limit the movement, and kept a wrench on the tensioner to control the spring. If you get the nut loosened to the point where the two halves can unwind, release the wrench slowly and unwind the spring as you count turns. You might want to use leather welding gloves to protect your hands just in case.

There is also a rubber damper in the housing to slow the movement of the tensioner as it pivots, so there may be a slight drag as it unwinds. Once the spring tension is relieved, the unit is fairly straightforward. Remove teh lock nut fully and take teh front half off the rear (stationary) bracket. There is a shielded single row bearing for the idler (203 IIRC), and the rubber damper, the self-locking nut on the pivot, plus the spring. Not much else but die castings. If you can pull the bearing and replace it, you have a "new" unit. I get bearings at cost and keep a few on hand for motors, alternators, trailer axles, etc., so the whole thing was about an hour and $6.00 in parts. Plus I got my curiousity satisfied.

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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Jester, no prob.. I mean like I said.. I could be wrong.. Usually when I've had to replace tensioners.. they drive up with them all ready exploded... and just hanging there by the bolt.. so yeah. I've seen them apart. For the low cost of one from a parts store(usually w/ the standard "lifetime warranty") i'd probably end up going through every one they had.

Anthony

 

Hmm..thanks Vader..I'll consider it. I don't suppose if you noticed if there is any reason you can't put it back together, winding it the other way to the tention is reversed?

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports