Seriously though, I went back in and corrected my timing and also found that a vaccum line that hooked up to a hexagonal "stud" on the back of the intake was dryrotted and had a crack in it that I know was sucking air. Well the knock went away. What does that line provide vaccum to? Could have affected the knoc in some way? this probably sounds stupid but it would be stupider not to ask.

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We are the future, the 21st. century dislexyic, glue sniffing, cyber *****, with homicidal minds and handguns.

[This message has been edited by LottaBallsCamaro (edited April 17, 2001).]

 

Well a vacuum leak can cause a lean condition, which in turn can very well cause knocking. So probably.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
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bump

 

On a TPI, the driver's side vacuum port provides power to the brake booster. On the passenger side, the vacuum ports run to the fuel pressure regulator and to the cruise control (I think).

I also agree that a vacuum leak would certainly be capable of causing knock. If one section of hose was dryrotted, it wouldn't hurt to check the rest of the hoses in the engine bay just in case. Never know what else you might find. A couple of years ago I just went and replaced every vacuum hose in the engine compartment just as a preventive measure for an eleven year old car with over 100 k miles on it. Car smiled.

 

LBC,

O.K., you got my curiosity with the subject, but only because I was ready to hit the "delete" button. (O.K., insert punch line here...)

Lean operation = hot chambers = detonation.

And yes, it's always "stupider" not to ask when you don't know.

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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
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