I just installed SLP headers, new Plug wires, new O2 sensor, and I burned a new ARAP chip. It started up real nice I drove it to town to get the exhaust work finished, and it seamed to be running really good. I then drove it around town for a couple of hours, and it ran really strong. I parked it at my sisters house for a few hours and I went to leave it started real easy, I let it idle for a while and when I got into the car there was a chech engine light. I have never got one before so I shut it off and checked for a code, but there wasn't one, just 12. When I went to start it it just turns over and over but never fires. I can smell gas so I assume that it's not sparking and just dumping gas. It's an 89 350 TPI IROC with 120K kilometers. It's got lots of Fuel Pressure, new plugs and cap and rotor a couple hundred miles ago, brand new plug wires and O2.
Of course I first suspected the new prom so I installed my backup prom and it made no difference.
I think it might be the coil wire but then why would it run all day and up to that very minute and then die.
I don't understand, I going to try put the old coil wire back on, but I doubt it will work.
How do you know if the ECM is fried???
Thanks for any help

 

I would suspect the ignition coil.

 

How can I check if the coil is wrecked???

 

I can't believe how many people are running into this problem. I tell ya, I JUST went through it, and it was hell. But let me narrow it down for you.

IGNITION MODULE

Coil's rarely go bad.

A local auto store can test your module for you, but I say don't do it. Mine tested fine, but was still bad.

Just go out and buy a new one. Disconnect the negative battery cable also (This will reset the computer), or there is a yellow fuse right above the battery on the side of the wall, on the inner fender of the car. Pull it out, and put it back in (This will also reset the computer)

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Third Gen Project
1989 305 tbi Camaro RS Red/Red
Ram Air II Hood
Centerline Champ 500 Rims
Edelbrock Open Element
MacEwen White Faced Guages

"Stock?! Theres nothing "stock" about a stock car."

 

I don't know if there is a way to test it but i am sure there is a "proper way". Or just replace it.

Brendan

 

Ok last night I went to try and fix the car and I got in it and it started right away. I turned it off and it started again, the SES light came on so I turned it to ON and checked for a code, but there was none. I decided to try drive it home, 20 miles on the highway, on the way out of town the SES light was on but when I hit highway speeds it turned off, and the car sounded and ran nice. I was watching the temp gauge pretty close but it stayed cool all the way. When I got home I turned it off and tryed to start it again and it wouldn't. Just turned over like it wasn't sparking. It seems that the added heat off the headers have caused something to go screwy.
Sonar is this like what your car did, wouldn't start when it was warm? Won't a new ignition module do the same thing? Can you recomend one?
Thanks for any help

 

Ok I took it for another drive and after about thirty minutes it died on me the engine was warm up but it wasn't overheating. When I stopped it wouldn't start, but I was still getting the SES light so I checked for codes again and I got a 15 and a 32. Now code 15 is the Coolant temperature sensor and 32 is the EGR. Now I think that the CTS is either screwed, disconnected, or a faulty wire which is sending the computer some false info, which is causing the problem, I hope. Now I read the tech article on the code 32 and in there it sounds like the faulty CTS could be causing the code 32, at least I hope.
Has anyone else run into code 15? Any places to check first? Think its likely that the wire pulled out of the ECM connector?
Thanks for any help.