zero (electrical) power
zero (electrical) power
My car has been sitting for about 2 months. Basically waiting for extra money to roll in to buy some parts. I installed headers a month and a half ago, and finally got around to installing nick nack parts (sensors, plugs, wires etc.). Well I go to start the car and...nothing. Not a light comes on. I know the battery is good, so that can be ruled out. I'm guessing maybe something with my starter wires perhaps? But thats pretty easy I dunno how I could have screwed that up. Who knows, maybe I somehow did though.
What I'm wondering is, if the starter wires look good, where else should I check?
What I'm wondering is, if the starter wires look good, where else should I check?
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Make sure all the connections on the starter and battery are good, clean, and tight. Then make sure the wires themselves aren't bad.
Don't forget the fusible links.
Don't forget the fusible links.
Starter wires looked fine to me, still no power though. Fusible links? Which should I check?
And if it matters, I can't get the o2 sensor and the temp gauge sensor both connected at the same time. o2 sensor wire is too short. I didn't think that would cause this problem though.
I really need to get this car running today. Please help, I'll be the first to admit I don't know much about car mechanics.
And if it matters, I can't get the o2 sensor and the temp gauge sensor both connected at the same time. o2 sensor wire is too short. I didn't think that would cause this problem though.
I really need to get this car running today. Please help, I'll be the first to admit I don't know much about car mechanics.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,352
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
that happend to me one time, but it happened over night, i went out to buy some new battery cables and i cleaned up the conections at the battery with a wire brush, it did the trick, just make sure your grounds are good and tight
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Did the wire brush thing, checked the battery cables, re-re checked all the wires to the starter to make sure they were tight... still no luck. I couldn't tell ya if I have power to the fusebox, don't have one of those wire testers. It wouldn't matter if the trans. was in park or not, because even the dome light fails to come on.. Bah this sucks.
Thanks for the ideas though.
Looks like I'm going to have to pay someone else to figure it out.
Thanks for the ideas though.
Looks like I'm going to have to pay someone else to figure it out.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,352
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
when i didnt know what to do and replaced te wires i thought my old ones were fine, but i guess they werent. i just invested the 12 bucks for new ones and it worked, and teres nothing to lose, you get new wires even if it doesnt help. so you come out on top
but yeah good luck
but yeah good luck Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 1
From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Its hard to trouble shoot if you don't have the tools. You need to get yourself a multimeter. Radioshack or an autoparts store should have them. I got a really cheap one from Harbor Freight for $3.
Thanks guys. I'll probably replace the wires as suggested by 83_Camaro_83 and the multimeter as well tomarrow. Right now I'm off to take off the starter and reinstall it in case I screwed up something somehow.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,985
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
check the small stud on the starter. you may have broke it or stripped the treads i made that mistake installing mine. it was new rebuild so i just took it back and they exchanged it. if that little stud is loose it will not get any poer to the car.
Jeff
oh so tell us what have you done to the car since it last ran. from the time you opened the hood till now it is probally related. and i would doubt it is battery cables.
Jeff
oh so tell us what have you done to the car since it last ran. from the time you opened the hood till now it is probally related. and i would doubt it is battery cables.
Headers, that's it. :/
Which small stud are we talking about? Do you mean the one with the purple wire?
Only took off the starter to do the install. I guess that is almost where the problem would have to be, no? I had to remove the AIR pipe bracket that bolts onto the back of the pass. side head as well, which involed a braided wire falling off, but I put that back on. No idea what I'm doing wrong.
Which small stud are we talking about? Do you mean the one with the purple wire?
Only took off the starter to do the install. I guess that is almost where the problem would have to be, no? I had to remove the AIR pipe bracket that bolts onto the back of the pass. side head as well, which involed a braided wire falling off, but I put that back on. No idea what I'm doing wrong.
Member

Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Cheyenne, WY
Car: '89 Camaro RS
Engine: LB8 V6 MFI
Transmission: T-5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
From my experiences, most "no starting-no power" issues are caused due to a corroded negative ground and/or dirty connections to the starter... even w/ a fully charged battery. It can make a person 'mad' wondering what's going on.
Wire brush and sandpaper ALL 4 battery connection ends to SHINY METAL on SHINY METAL. (2 to the battery) and (1 each to the alternator bracket & starter prong).
Basically, ALL electrical connections NEED to be shiny metal to shiny metal for optimum voltage exchange.
Wire brush and sandpaper ALL 4 battery connection ends to SHINY METAL on SHINY METAL. (2 to the battery) and (1 each to the alternator bracket & starter prong).
Basically, ALL electrical connections NEED to be shiny metal to shiny metal for optimum voltage exchange.
Went and cleaned the connections, but before I put them all back on, heres the way I had them. The only one that looks sorta weird is the one with the two wires (very bottom). Not sure if I have those right. The small nut is against the starter, then the starter brace, then wires, then larger nut.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 12
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
From looking at that picture, you have the fusible links connected in the wrong place. They should be connected to the same post as the battery cable on the starter solenoid. There should also be a copper strip coming from the starter and connecting to the bottom post on the solenoid.
You know, I kept waiting and thinking "man, when is The Trickster going to post and help me on this?" lol. Thanks for the info.
I don't see a copper strip either.. but I'll go look again.
This Correct?
I don't see a copper strip either.. but I'll go look again.
This Correct?
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 12
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
That is the correct routing for the fusible links. Look at these pictures and you will see that copper strip that I am talking about. That copper strip would connect to that long threaded rod with the nut on it that you have shown in the picture.
Last edited by Trickster; Jul 31, 2004 at 03:20 PM.
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