Ok so i know that i'm exempt and i'm still checking to make sure i can remove stuff. but what can i / should i remove. the smog pump is already out, the rest of the air hoses will come out but other than that what else can i take out?

84 TA L69

 

You can remove the cat. You can remove the EGR but only if you correct it in the PROM. EGR is actually a good thing for cars desinged to use it. I wouldn;t even get rid of your cat. Sure a high flow cat can cost between $30 and $300 but it will only rob you of 1 to 2 hp literally. Besides cat, and AIR, your car does not have many emission related stuff. Well, the actual desing of the heads and cam in conjunction with the overall exhaust and tune of the car plays the biggest part in emssions; so I geuss you could get rid of those as well in favor of something better.

 

the big part that really sucks is that i just bought $500 coated headers WITH air a few months ago and i was just gona cap them, i can't see if that makes a difference. as far as a cat goes, i want one still. i might get dual cats and have true dual exhaust. and i never really thought about the EGR. i doubt i'll remove it bcuz i don't want a SES light on and i won't repogram or anything. so is the air hoses tha only thing to remove?

 

ok so i found a pic on an engine (LG4 i think) almost the same as my L69.

Green line- is what i can remove (smog pump and air hoses for it)

Red line- heater hoses, can't remove those

Blue line- evap canister (can i remove that??? it goes to the charcoal canister too right?? and i would remove that too??)

Purple line- i was gona find another aircleaner and cut that entire part off (bcuz i have a functional hood scoop and would rather it suck all the air in from outside the car thru the scoop.)

does all that sound good??

 

You can do a heater vale delete and evap csnister delete without any codes. A few searches should yield you your answers.

 

Chio987,
I see that you live in Pittsburgh, PA... I live in Cleveland, OH (GO Browns... heh heh).
Anyhow... if you're planning on driving that car much in 'our' type of fickle weather, I wouldn't take the heater core intake/return lines away.
Also, you can most likely $hit can the air conditioning compressor/lines/box... who needs air condition in Cleveland/Pittsburgh? It's 85+ MAYBE 10+ times a year... hell, use what I do... I call it 240AC, (2 windows down @ 40 MPH)

Be REALLY careful when removing all sorts of vacuum lines/exhaust components from your car's engine. GM designed the package to work together.

 

Shifty, i searched heater valve delete and mine is nothing what they show (my friends 91 z28 has that crap) but one hose from the heater core goes to the intake by the stat and the other to the water pump, no lines go to the rad (by the filler) like my friend's 91. as far as the EVAP canister delete...i found 2 post (ya only 2) and neither one were what i was looking for.....

Mr_Metal, steelers SUCK!!! LOL....ya i was thinking about getting rid of it, my belt broke on it 1.5 years ago and i'm sure the compressor is done from not working for that long, i mean ya, we don't see that much heat but remeber...HUMIDITY , sucks without AC altho my TA isn't my daily driver anymore. so AC delete may be on my list too.

 

You could do like I did on the old 83 that I used to have.
Replace the electronic advance HEI, for a vacuum advance unit. MSD makes a nice module and coil for it. Unplug the TPS and MC solenoid plugs from the carb. Then your computer has no control over the fuel or timing.
IIRC, the L69 had better heads than the L04, with bigger valves. I removed the AIR pump, belt and just about all of that myriad of vacuum lines that is under the hood. You should not have that heater valve, just all that AIR crap. When I finally got mine that way I liked it, you could pull the valve covers in a few seconds, and it was alot neater looking. Get a regualr thermostat housing and do away with all those hoses going to and from everywhere. If you do pop a check engine light, just pull the bulb.
Get yourself an open element air cleaner and do away with that highly restrictive factory setup.
You can remove the canister, but you will most likely need a vented gas cap, and don't forget to plug the lines.
Just use some 1/2" pipe caps on the headers, and let it fly.
If it's not your daily driver, then you might want to just hold out and start building a 406 or 383 to drop in there

 

1st Q- how much would all that cost???
2nd Q- with the stat, i still need that temp sensor in it, don't I??
3RD Q-well maybe not a Q...with the hood scoop, i can use an Xtreme filter top, then have the lid with the hole in it over the extreme top, so it draws air in from the outside.

"then you might want to just hold out and start building a 406 or 383 to drop in there"

at 1st i wanted to ZZ4 but now i want THIS !!!!!!!!

 

That's alot or money for the Jegs stroker. You can get more engine for your money here.
http://www.speedomotive.com/chevy_sm...%20engines.htm

 

I would strongly advise against hacking up your L69 air cleaner.

If you want to something to hack, go get something at the junkyard. Then when you figure out that whatever you make doesn't work as well as the factory one does, you can put it back.

Some of those pieces cannot be bought any more.

THe L69 heads are the same as teh LG4 ones; with the same 1.84" valves installed in them. I don't know why that myth refuses to die about them being different.

WHATEVER you hack up, try to keep the factory parts intact as much as possible.... the wiring, air cleaner, ECM, AIR, etc. Carefully remove it WITHOUT hacking it, and put it in a box and store it. You never know when it might come in real handy. What happened to me, might happen to you; I got a job ofer in Southern California, and sinnce I had destroyed absolutely nothing on mine, I was able to re-assmble it and make it pass "enhanced" California inspection.

 

I would highly recommend you DON'T do that. Putting in a standard HEI is a good thing, but unplugging the CCQJet is a very bad idea. Sure, the computer has no control over the fuel delivery (primary side) at that point, but neither does the carb If you do eliminate the CC system, go with a nonCC carb and not a disconnected CCQJet...

 

idunno about that site, wouldn't a GM Performance creat engine have like a 2year/24,000 mile warranty and those don't, right? has anyone got an engine from that site?

i don't have the dual snorkle, but ya, i would never do that, i still have my stock mani and Y-pipe. just in case