Engine Starting problems
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 239
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From: Temperance, MI
Car: 88 GTA + Dakota on N20
Engine: 383 4 bolt
Transmission: 700r4
Engine Starting problems
OK Heres the deal and its got me stumped.
The car is an 88 gta with a 383 24# injectors
Almost stock tunedport except for custom chip
(Tried it with the stock chip too so thats not the problem)
Heres the problem, The car will start up and run good except at idle were it tends to tack down to 300 and run funny but will not stall. But when i turn the car off it wont start back up. it wont even try to start it is setting my timing gun off so it is getting spark. It seems to of started happening when i acidently shorted my alternator out.
Thanx in advance
The car is an 88 gta with a 383 24# injectors
Almost stock tunedport except for custom chip
(Tried it with the stock chip too so thats not the problem)
Heres the problem, The car will start up and run good except at idle were it tends to tack down to 300 and run funny but will not stall. But when i turn the car off it wont start back up. it wont even try to start it is setting my timing gun off so it is getting spark. It seems to of started happening when i acidently shorted my alternator out.
Thanx in advance
383,
Have you tried to clear and reinitialize the ECM? Disconnect battery power for about five minutes and turn on the light switch and the ignition. I know the lights won't work, but the load will drain any capacitance left in the ECM components and other electronics.
NOTE: If you have a Delco-Loc of Theft-Loc II radio, clear the security code before disconnecting the battery!
When you reconnect power, the ECM will have no BLM tables, therefore can have no corrupted data in those table from the potential spike you sent by shorting your alternator. After about twenty minutes of driving in normal ranges, the ECM should start writing new data tables. Until then, it will rely on the lookup tables in the PROM for base parameters that will at least run the engine.
------------------
Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Have you tried to clear and reinitialize the ECM? Disconnect battery power for about five minutes and turn on the light switch and the ignition. I know the lights won't work, but the load will drain any capacitance left in the ECM components and other electronics.
NOTE: If you have a Delco-Loc of Theft-Loc II radio, clear the security code before disconnecting the battery!
When you reconnect power, the ECM will have no BLM tables, therefore can have no corrupted data in those table from the potential spike you sent by shorting your alternator. After about twenty minutes of driving in normal ranges, the ECM should start writing new data tables. Until then, it will rely on the lookup tables in the PROM for base parameters that will at least run the engine.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Temperance, MI
Car: 88 GTA + Dakota on N20
Engine: 383 4 bolt
Transmission: 700r4
NO I dont think that is it i had it disconnected after it grounded for over an hour trying to fix the problem. Any other ideas. This problem is driving me nuts
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,978
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From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Possibly the IAC motor is cooked? Or the PROM isn't correct for you application. My car did something similar with all the shaking and major gas smell coming from the pipe.
It was the IAC, but possibly your PROM wasn't done up right and is way too rich (or lean if no black smoke?)
Did you get any codes at all? Post back, I'm sure this is a very fixable prob.
It was the IAC, but possibly your PROM wasn't done up right and is way too rich (or lean if no black smoke?)
Did you get any codes at all? Post back, I'm sure this is a very fixable prob.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Temperance, MI
Car: 88 GTA + Dakota on N20
Engine: 383 4 bolt
Transmission: 700r4
I tried unhooking the battery last night.
It didnt work.
Im not getting any codes but now that i think about it the exhaust does smell a bit and comes out kind of dark but not too bad
but does the computer use the o2 sensor to tune on a hot start.
Thanx for the reply guys im sure we will get this fingered out.
It didnt work.
Im not getting any codes but now that i think about it the exhaust does smell a bit and comes out kind of dark but not too bad
but does the computer use the o2 sensor to tune on a hot start.
Thanx for the reply guys im sure we will get this fingered out.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Temperance, MI
Car: 88 GTA + Dakota on N20
Engine: 383 4 bolt
Transmission: 700r4
Ok guys i replaced the iac and double checked all the fuses. Ten Ileaned up the mixture a little bit Via Prom. it cleaned up the little bit of smoke and It runs a little better. but it is still doing that thing at idle and it wont start some times. Any other ideas.
Thanx
Thanx
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 0
From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
It shouldn't idle down that far...
I would start to suspect the pickup coil for this. I had one that had an intermittant open and would cause the module to fry (no start) or sometimes a very low stumbly idle. I figured after 3 modules a week there must be something else wrong.
Is the minimum air set ok? Throttle pos sensor set?
Disconnect your 9th injector plug (rectanglar at the front of the intake manifold) and see if it clears up. Is pressure holding in the fuel rail after shutdown? Is there fuel coming out of the pressure regulator vacuum line?
A scan tool would be a good idea and make this stuff easier.
If it's just an idle problem I would supspect the IAC or the wiring to it, since an overly rich condition (therefore running slower) would be compensated by the computer anyway.
This is alot of stuff i know, but all of them could cause a bad idle/no start problem.
I would start to suspect the pickup coil for this. I had one that had an intermittant open and would cause the module to fry (no start) or sometimes a very low stumbly idle. I figured after 3 modules a week there must be something else wrong.
Is the minimum air set ok? Throttle pos sensor set?
Disconnect your 9th injector plug (rectanglar at the front of the intake manifold) and see if it clears up. Is pressure holding in the fuel rail after shutdown? Is there fuel coming out of the pressure regulator vacuum line?
A scan tool would be a good idea and make this stuff easier.
If it's just an idle problem I would supspect the IAC or the wiring to it, since an overly rich condition (therefore running slower) would be compensated by the computer anyway.
This is alot of stuff i know, but all of them could cause a bad idle/no start problem.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Temperance, MI
Car: 88 GTA + Dakota on N20
Engine: 383 4 bolt
Transmission: 700r4
Well my new used laptop should be comming in the morning. It is one of those super fast 25mhz machines. lol but anyway ill be able to hook up diacom tomorrow and see if this helps me out at all. Ill post back tomorrow. Thanx for the advice ill try to change the coil too. i have a blaster right now so ill put my stock one back in.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 0
From: PA
Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Not necessarily that coil. I mean the coil in the distributer. The secondary coil is less likely to cause that prob.... Although it could i suppose.
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