400 block bored .030"
with TRW forged aluminum pistons TRW-L2489F30
SDPC balancer part
#6272225 also done is
Hot tanked and magnaflux
Bore and hone with deck plate
.010-.010 crank
.035" deck clearance
Resurface deck to flat
Plugged steam holes for deck strength
cam bearings
checked align bore
Pink rods
Resized rods to bolts
ARP rod bolts
crankshaft oil holes chamfered
complete assembly balanced
less cam and oil pump
You can contact me on my cell phone if interested


How's the structual integrity of the engine sound? Will it hold up to 6k rpms?

Any idea what the compression ratio would be with aluminum afr190 heads with 58cc?

Will it work with a 700r4 with no adapters and such?

 

With the correct flexplate a TH700R4 will bolt up to a 400, or any Gen 1 small block Chevy or any big block Chevy.

Martin

 

What are you using this engine for? I wouldn't plug the steam holes if it's going to be street driven, they are there for a good reason, and I would pick a different piston, you looking at about 11.5 compression I think with that flat top piston, plus you going to have crappy quench height of .070 by the time you add a .035 thick head gasket, I would look into getting a reverse dome type piston and a .01 max deck clearance.

 

This will be a daily drivne car...but will see lots of hard abuse and driving.

I've already decided that I will unplug the steam holes and get steam holes drilled into my heads.

Sorry to be dumb....but what is quench height?

What's a .01 max deck clearance? Do I have to take it to a machine shop?

My car's been sitting since March...and I'm begining to get depressed because everything is taking so long. I am so close to just giving up on this whole thing until next spring.

 

Definately drill the steam holes, but be smarter than me and have the machine shop do it the first time, so you don't have to pay 150 to get themf fixed. You need the steam holes or the engine will over heat with street use since it has no coolant passages.

I don't know much about quench area, i know the theory behind it, but thats about it. I am running a 22cc dish piston with a 64cc head and have approx. 10.5 compression.

I know how you feel about being depressed about the whole thing, it took me forever to get my 406 together, and the thing is, the rings didn't seat, so I am going to take it back apart next week to re-ring it.


Jason

 

Based on the specs you've posted the compression ratio would be 11.4:1 with a 58cc head and a .041" thick gasket. Too high for steet pump gas.

a 64cc head would get you 10.67:1 still a little high

a 70cc head would be 10.04:1

A 76CC head would be 9.49:1

Find a cylinder head between 68 and 72cc's or get a 76cc head and mill it to this spec.

Your total quench clearance is .075" (.035 deck clearance+ .041" gasket)
anything more than .060" is excessive and will make the motor more octane sensitive.

should be .040" total for best results.
should have had the block "0 decked" to the pistons
and choose a 76cc head.
would be 10.02:1 to 10.22:1 depending on the piston's valve relief volume (5-7cc)
Yes you would need the services of a qualified machine shop to correct this.

should be fine to 6000rpm but will not want or need any more.

Try the compression ratio calc on this page