i just had this guy i just met build and install a motor for me, now i'm not a motor head i just wanted more power. the guy builds stock car motors... and this is what he did for me,,

350 bored out to a 360,
got rid of all the vacume advance
i was told he used fuel injection heads, but the heads are 205/160
a lunaty cam, not sure on specs though
holley 600 carb,

the guys a freak and dissapeared
but since then we put the vacume advance back on, the carb was a mess so we gotta get it cleaned up, my question is it seems like he set it up for a race car, will i be able to get it to idle right and be street driven withouth changin the cam or heads, because right now we can't get it to idle right when it gets under 1200 the car sputters and dies, and it doesn't have the power like it should, not even close to running like a 360 should... sorry i can't get all details you need

 

ALSO, when he installed this new motor he took out my computer and most of the wires that were around, now my question is isn't the 700R4 computer controlled,, i have a 1991 camaro...

 

Sounds like the guy gave you a royal screwing. Yes, you trans does have a lockup converter that is controlled by the computer. THe good news is there are lots of kits that do that for you. If you search here you will find some of the threads discussing it. As far as the engine, the only real thing to do is to start at the dist. and carb and try to get it running and go from there.

What are the head casting numbers by the way? HE may have installed way too much cam for the engine.

 

See if you can find out the cam specs for us.

360 c.i.d., that's .60 over isnt it?

 

+.060 350 is a 358 or so, it's still 350 reguardless of what size over bore it has now

 

Yeah, it's a 350 with a .60 (or whatever) over-bore.

Just curious what over-bore gave it 10 more cubes of displacement.

 

I agree, it's a 350, that's had some maintenance performed. The maintenance happened to affect the displacement. It's still a 350. It just has less time left on this Earth than it used to.

It would be nice to know what heads you actually have. "Fuel injection heads" and "205/160" aren't a very good description. The 205/160 thing I'm guessing is what he claims the valve sizes are; if so, then either they're not GM heads, or the guy is lying, or they've had some REALLY expensive machine work done to them. Those diameters of valves won't fit in stock heads because the factory spec for the distance between the valves is less than that, they would overlap; you have to relocate the valve guides to do that. Most aftermarket heads have their valves on slightly larger centers than stock (anywhere from .030" to .100").

Same for the cam. Lunati (ends in "i", not "y", it's the last name of a guy with first name Joe, who is just one member of a whole family in Memphis) makes every kind of cam there is, from stock 929 replicas to solid rollers with over .700" lift, and that's just for small block Chevys. It's impossible to guess how to make your motor run right without more detail on that.

Get some part #s and maybe we can help.

 

A 350 @ +.03 = 355.1 cid, @ +.04 = 356.9cid, @ +.06 = 360.1cid

 

its a 350 with a bunch of work done to it that you have no idea of what ? ? ? ? ? you need to be doing every thing you can to look this goofball up and find out what he thought he was doing to your car ......

 

reset the ignition timing to 25degrees BTDC at idle.
readjust the carb. If it seems to idle and run much better
see this thread to see what nees to be done to the distributor to get the car to run decent on the street with a big Lunati circle track cam.
you can identify what cylinder heads you have by removing a valve cover and reading the head casting number off the head.
go to www.mortec.com and look up your heads.
if he stuck in a solid lifter camshaft, the valve lash may need adjustment too now that the motor is broken in.
Fix the distributor first.