I have a problem with my arp stainless header bolts getting loose all the time. I had installed them with antiseize. they are bolting to aluminum heads. should I be using blue locktite instead?

thanks

 

I think you made the correct choice. Installing steel or stainless bolts into aluminum castings without an anti sieze compound is only asking for damage when you disassemble them. With the additional heat around the exhaust flange, the problem would only get worse.

LocTite (or any other anaerobic adhesive/sealant) typically does not work well in high heat applications. In fact, one method of removing parts assembled with LocTite "non-removable" adhesives (like 262 or 282) is to heat the assembly to weaken the bond. The normal heating from the exhaust might have a similar effect and negate any "benefit" of using LocTite in the first place.

Anti seize and periodic retorquing until the fasteners are "set" would be my choice.

 

try drilling the bolts and using safety wire

 

what ed said, but on a retail level, I would get the Stage 8 (that's a brand; there are others) locking bolts. With my 1 & 5/8" super comps, I had to grind a couple of the lock washers, but after I did that, installed the washers, then the e-clips over that, I have never had a header leak at the head.

So, locking header bolts + anti-sieze = success.

 

but safety wire looks so damn good. guess it's a hold over from my days with race karts.

 

It might be a little difficult to cross-drill a hardened E-10 Torx, which would be my choice for header bolts. They can be socket or wrench driven easily, take less space than a hex head, and can be torqued heavily.

 

My mechanic put a little tack weld one of my header bolts that kept backing out. If you don't want to do that you can always go with the Breslin header bolts. Check out the link

below.http://www.go-breslin.com/text.html

 

from what i've seen all header bolts are hard to drill. i center drill them first then drill through hole. usually break several bits getting a set drilled.