I have tried many additives, but I can't get rid of the ticking. I am fairly sure it's the lifters..I was having some oil pressure issues awhile ago too. Is this making me go slower? I can't seem to get up to par with other 305 TPI 5 speeds 1/4 times.

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• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
• Dual Friction Stage III Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• AC Delco Rapid Fire Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Gutted Air Box
• Best Maryland (40 degrees) E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 mile MPH 93.91
• Best Florida (80 degrees) E/T 14.88, 60' 2.163, 1/8th mile 9.540, 1/4 mile MPH 92.74
• Best 60' 2.163(Florida)
• TPiS AFPR set to 42psi using Accel Fuel Pressure Gauge (Installed after Maryland run)
• Aluminum Driveshaft (Installed after Maryland run)

 

First off can I ask where you aquired an aluminum driveshaft? I have been looking for one but they are so expensive!

As for your question, lifters can definately cause your engine to not run as hard as the same engine with properly working lifters. A problem that occured with me (I think from racing alot) was three of my lifters would occassionally stick and then cause the valves not to open and the engine would stall. A bit embarassing at the track. As for your tick, well it could be more than lifters.

If you are positive that it is the lifters then just replace them. With the times you posted you don't need anything fancy just get some good old fashioned Budget Performance ones. Stop wasting money on additives and just spring for some new lifters, while your at it.....juice up that cam to something like
Crane Cam's "Compucam." It's designed to work on computer controlled cars.

 

The ticking could also be from your injectors. I know mine are loud.

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87 IROC-Z 305 TPI gears, exhaust, converter
14.70 at 94.1 mph
Minirammed 377 for spring

 

I got the driveshaft right off this site! The guy's name is James Cole. I got it for 160 bucks shipped! He is a great guy to by from and I reccomend you buy it from him. He polishes the driveshafts too before he shifts. I can now race turbo cars on the highway..I used to have to let off at 100 because I would lose so much oil and the car felt like it was going to explode..Now the faster I go the smoother the ride! Is there any time to be gained from performance lifters? How much do parts and labor usually run? The ticking goes away at idle..it's there till about 2600 where I think it get's drowned out..I doubt it's disapearing though. Thanks alot for all the help!

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• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
• Dual Friction Stage III Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• AC Delco Rapid Fire Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Gutted Air Box
• Best Maryland (40 degrees) E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 mile MPH 93.91
• Best Florida (80 degrees) E/T 14.88, 60' 2.163, 1/8th mile 9.540, 1/4 mile MPH 92.74
• Best 60' 2.163(Florida)
• TPiS AFPR set to 42psi using Accel Fuel Pressure Gauge (Installed after Maryland run)
• Aluminum Driveshaft (Installed after Maryland run)

 

You will not gain any time if you just step up to say a "performance Hydralic Lifter" that just means it can go an extra 1000 - 1500 RPM higher. Now if you went to a roller lifters you can pull RPM's faster. That's definately worth some time in the 1/4. How much is hard for me to guess. Labour is another I cannot quote you on. As you have to remove the intake manifold to get at the lifters. Comp Cams make a good bunch of hydralic lifters for about $70.00 the rollers are a bit higher at 270.00. Hope that helps.(Get slap in the hydralic, it will still be better than what you have right now.)