i think the subject explains it. is there like a guide online or somethign cause i would liek to get this done tonite. i want to drive the car so bad ! somenbody please help..

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350 bored 30 over ..882 casting heads ..comp cam..hooker headers.. 700r4 corvette servo .. 3.73 and SLP posi no hood on the car , holley 750 CFM, performer RPM intake.. and umm couple other things here and there

 

set the timing pointer to zero, both valves closed on #1 set rotor to #1 install distributor

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

err im a dummy so i will need dummy instructions... sorry ......

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350 bored 30 over ..882 casting heads ..comp cam..hooker headers.. 700r4 corvette servo .. 3.73 and SLP posi no hood on the car , holley 750 CFM, performer RPM intake.. and umm couple other things here and there

 

Most exact way is to have a degree'd balancer or one with timing tape. Depends on how much initial timing you intend to run. Lets say you want 10 degrees. I think stock timing marks will go that high.

Make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC. With your thumb over the hole, it will make a whoosh sound as the piston come up to TDC. Now continue to rotate the crank and line up the timing mark on the balancer to the 10 degree BTDC mark on the pointer. If you go past TDC either go around twice (once will be #6 cylinder) or back up the crank at least 1/4 turn and go forward again. The engine is now in the timing position for where you want the spark to fire. Now go to the ignition.

Drop the distributor in where ever you think it will work best. HEI's with the vaccum advance only has limited movement.

Now take off the cap AND rotor so you can see the magnetic pickup. Turn the distributor so that the points on the magnetic pickup line up. That's where the distributor is going to fire the plugs. Put the rotor back on and look there it's pointing. It's usually in the 5 o'clock position where the #1 plug wire is. If it isn't then where ever it's pointing will be the #1 plug wire. You can reposition it by pulling the distributor, rotating the oil pickup and dropping the distributor back in and trying again. Reinstall the cap and wires. Your ignition is now set and should be within a couple of degrees from perfect. You can now start the engine and not have to worry about timing it before you break in the cam. Recheck the timing later after the cam is broke in with a timing light.

I can't dumb down the instructions any more than that. If the engine doesn't fire up on the first try after following these instructions then something else is wrong.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley