After recently fighting starter heat soak problems, I have done numerous searches on this board and become very educated in all areas about heat soak, heat shields, remote solonoids, starters, mini starters, ETC, ETC, ETC.

Knowing that I pretty much need to go to a mini-starter when I switch from the Hooker shorties to the Hooker long tube (near future) and having read many posts about using the LT-1 style starters instead of an after market starter such as the CVR, Summit ETC, my question is:

Which is a better starter or a better choice?

the LT-1 like the one I might get from a parts house or
http://www.turbobuicks.com/lt1starter.html
OR
an aftermarket such as the CVR, Summit, Jeg's, ETC.?

Also, would a heat shield be necessary/advisable with whatever version of a mini starter I end up with?


Thanks in advance for any help!
Craig

 

Couple more questions I thought of:

I remember reading in a couple posts here on third gen to stay away from the Hitachi style (why?) and that the Nippendenso style was better (why?). Is there any easy to tell the difference between the two?


Was looking at some mini starters on E-bay. Any opinions on which would be the better choice?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46098

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33576

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33576


Thanks again!

 

i've used #3 on your list for almost 6 years now with no problems. mine is for the 168 flywheel. i use the mini starter , heat shield and remote solenoid. it clears the 3 sets of headers i've tried

 

I remember having Pep Boys look up a LT1 starter for me and they quoted over $200. My CVR pro-torque mini starter cost like $150 and works/fits good. I can start my motor with 32* initial timing so I'd say its pretty tuff.

 

Just out of curosity--why the remote solonoid?

Did U still have heat soak problem with this starter?

Long tube or shorties?