seized engine
seized engine
Does anyone know how to break free a engine if it is possable. I bought the car with it seized and I am just curious if I could break it free, I don't care if i destoy the motor because I will be replacing it. Oh yeah, roll starting is not an option here.
6Speed,
ATF is O.K., but you might want to try two-cycle oil instead. There are several reasons, but the most important is that is has a much better film adhesion than other oils and can actually penetrate cast metals. The other reasons are that it lubricates well in very thin films and doesn't contaminate bearings as much as a turbine oil can. It also burns away more readily, if and when you finally get the engine started. You should also get some cheap oil and two filters - the cheapest you can find.
Pull all the plugs, oil up the cylinders, and try moving the engine via the crank pulley or flywheel. Don't use the starter until you can get the engine to turn by hand. Once the engine is free, turn it several complete revolutions to distribute the oil and completely free the rings in the bores/grooves. Before you install plugs, try to crank the engine with the starter. Crank for ten seconds at a time, and repeat several times until you are assured that engine oil is pumping. Check the oil for fuel and water contamination, and change it if it isn't pure oil.
Install clean plugs, and start the engine for about a five-ten second run. Shut it off, allow the smoke to clear, and investigate any hot spots. Start it again for another ten seconds or so, then shut it off and check again. If everything is O.K., start for about two minutes, then shut it off and check for oil contamination and coolant overheating. If the oil is foamed from water, replace the oil and filter, then start again. Do not load the engine for any of these runs - neutral or PARK only. Once you can get it to idle for ten minutes without overheating or tearing itself apart, try loading by placing in gear without moving. If the engine still runs and hasn't delevoped and serious knocks (not valve train ticking) try driving it. Change the oil and filter again after a couple hundred miles at the most, and you might be lucky.
If the main or rod bearings are damaged, this method probably won't work, but it can work for stuck rings & rusted bores.
So, what's the story? Stored forever? Under water? Overheated of run out of oil? What?
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
ATF is O.K., but you might want to try two-cycle oil instead. There are several reasons, but the most important is that is has a much better film adhesion than other oils and can actually penetrate cast metals. The other reasons are that it lubricates well in very thin films and doesn't contaminate bearings as much as a turbine oil can. It also burns away more readily, if and when you finally get the engine started. You should also get some cheap oil and two filters - the cheapest you can find.
Pull all the plugs, oil up the cylinders, and try moving the engine via the crank pulley or flywheel. Don't use the starter until you can get the engine to turn by hand. Once the engine is free, turn it several complete revolutions to distribute the oil and completely free the rings in the bores/grooves. Before you install plugs, try to crank the engine with the starter. Crank for ten seconds at a time, and repeat several times until you are assured that engine oil is pumping. Check the oil for fuel and water contamination, and change it if it isn't pure oil.
Install clean plugs, and start the engine for about a five-ten second run. Shut it off, allow the smoke to clear, and investigate any hot spots. Start it again for another ten seconds or so, then shut it off and check again. If everything is O.K., start for about two minutes, then shut it off and check for oil contamination and coolant overheating. If the oil is foamed from water, replace the oil and filter, then start again. Do not load the engine for any of these runs - neutral or PARK only. Once you can get it to idle for ten minutes without overheating or tearing itself apart, try loading by placing in gear without moving. If the engine still runs and hasn't delevoped and serious knocks (not valve train ticking) try driving it. Change the oil and filter again after a couple hundred miles at the most, and you might be lucky.
If the main or rod bearings are damaged, this method probably won't work, but it can work for stuck rings & rusted bores.
So, what's the story? Stored forever? Under water? Overheated of run out of oil? What?
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
I am not sure, it has oil that is in good shape but it does seem like the coolent got really hot and boiled off. I bought the car this way and did not get too many details. The seized engine does make a good parking brake on the small hill it is parked on
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