Paipe90GTA

I finally my car to a mechanic about the problem of the car not starting but then turning on a few mintues later. ( it did it while i was getting my inspection!) Well the mechanic said that it was the Ignition lock cylinder and that he would charge $290 to fix but that it would be something i might be able to do myself, so when i called the dealership about the parts they said that they would have to change the igintion lock because the VATS and would they have to reprogram the computer at a cost of $280.

Ive been doing searchs a see quite a few people with my same problem but none reffer to the lock cylinder. Has anyone changed there ingition lock themselves is the dealership just scamming me or is my mechanic (hes worked on my car quite a few times).

thanks

Benm109

I have replaced my ignition lock cylinder before and can walk you through it, but to me your problem doesn't sound like its your lock cylinder, at least in my opinion. I think your problem has to do more with VATS. Can you describe the problem with a little bit more detail. I may be able to help some more.

Also, the dealership telling you the computer has to be reprogrammed is total . It will probably only cost you $100 total if you end up having to do this.

But, as I said, I can tell you how to replace the lock cylinder if you want (and just in case I can't, Trickster can). Just let me know.

Paipe90GTA

my problem is the common car wont start, but will start 5 min later it did it today when i went to get my inspection sticker. Its only happened once every few weeks but its been happening everyday and now a few times a day know. Like everyoe else i changed my starter first and got a new battery . We tested the starter before we put it in and checked the voltage to it. The light turns off after a few secounds and it throws the code 46.

Scottlb9

I had the same problem except mine died while moving. Is 46 a vats code? I cant rember but I got a VATS code.

First things first, check your key. If the resistor is dirty, clean it off and try..

Second, do you have a spare key? If so, try that key for a while.

Third, get a flashlight and look into the lock cylinder and look at the contacts. Mine were really far apart and my key was really worn down.

I didn't have a spare key so I went the R&R route.

If you replace the lock cylinder, make sure you bring the key because they need to check the key resistance and get the proper key number.

The lock cylinder was $60 and the key was $30 and I did it myself.
The three important things that you will need are...
1. A steering wheel puller.
2. A lock plate tool (It pushes the lock plate in).
3. Snap ring pliers.

Did the 90's come with a driver side airbag? If so, you also have to disable the air bag.

waltersb

I did the exact same thing when 1 of the 2 wires from the ignition cyllinder for vats broke off at the cyllinder...

I suppose I coulda tried soldering it...

There's a thread on this site (or a how-to) that's about tightening the 4 reverse torx bolts that hold the steering column tight...

search on 'steering column loose' or something

good instructions on part removals and some shortcuts to help you out.

Benm109

Scottlb9 is right, you are going to need 3 tools (all of which you can buy or rent from any auto parts store), a steering wheel puller, snap ring pliers, and a lock retaining ring compressor (also called a lock plate compressor). And it would be a good idea to try cleaning your old key or try using a spare key and see if the problem still exists. But, I am going to post how to replace an ignition lock cylinder, just in case. Here's how to do it:




First, disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the SIR fuse from the fusebox. Take the knee bolster off (the two plastic pieces under the steering column). They are held in by 5 torx screws. Then, look near the bottom of the steering column and find a large yellow wire. There are two yellow connectors that hold it together, disconnect them by removing the small green piece that holds them together and prying. Now your airbag is disabled. Now you can remove the airbag by unbolt the 4 torx bolts behind the steering wheel (the top left hand bolt is going to be tricky, FYI). Slowly take the airbag out to where you can see behind it and remove the yellow connector from the airbag and the horn button. Make sure to lay the airbag up while it's out of the car just in case it deploys. Then remove the nut that holds the steering wheel on and use a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel.

Now you will see the airbag coil. Use the lock plate compressor to push it back and remove the snap ring with your snap ring pliers. Slowly pry the coil out and let it hang by the wires. Now use the lock plate compressor again to compress the lock plate and remove another snap ring. Remove the lock plate and cancelling cam. Remove the hazard light switch (1 torx screw in the middle of the switch). Now, move the turn signal to the right turn signal position and you should see and remove 4 torx screws holding the mechanism in (and 1 more torx screw that holds the mechanism to the turn signal arm). Move the turn signal mechanism out of way and you should now see part of the lock cylinder.

To remove the lock cylinder, disconnect the the two white wires wrapped in an orange loom with black connectors under the steering column, remove the buzzer switch next to the lock cylinder (it's held in with 1 torx screw and is white plastic with two metal contacts on it and can be removed with needle nose pliers after the screw is out), and then put the key to the RUN position and remove the lock bolt which is directly under the center of the lock cylinder. Now slowly remove the ignition lock cylinder by pulling it out while routing the 2 white wires with the orange loom carefully through the steering column and out. And the installation is pretty much the reverse.




One note though, make sure you mark the locations of the steering wheel, airbag coil, lock plate, and cancelling cam, so they can be installed as the same way they came out. Make sure you don't drop any bolts in the steering column. And you should also readjust the airbag coil while it's out (to do this, depress the yellow button on the back of the coil and turn it in the direction of the arrow on the unit until it stops, and then turn it the opposite direction 2 1/2 times and you're done). I may have left out some details, or you may have some more questions, so just post or PM me, I will try my best to help you out.

Paipe90GTA

Thanks for the help Benm, ill look into trying to find these tools bright and early tommorow, as far trying my spare its the old key and is slightly bent , my regular key is not even a year old so im assuming its still good. i had seen a post by trickster about having detailed instructions and emailed him about it but ill just print yours out.

Thanks again
(p.s. prepare to check you pms )

Scottlb9

And to make the installation of that same wire headache free, simply tie a string (I used 16 gauge wire) to the end of that connetor before you pull it through the column.
make sure it's long enough to reach the bottom and still hang out the top.

Tie the connector at the top and pull gently through.

All done without one curse whispered

Just take your time and make sure the little pieces go back the same way.

If you do it, just let everyone know because there have been a lot of dead end posts.

I should know because I have a few to tie up myself.

Good luck,

Scott

Trickster

Hello Paipe90GTA,

I just sent you an e-mail with the same info that I sent to Benm109 to fix his problem.

Benm109

I forgot to mention that part about the string, thanks Scottlb9. I had a feeling I would forget some things. I don't know about you, but I ended up cursing a bit (I made some stupid mistakes, but it wasn't anything I couldn't fix ). Good luck, Paipe90GTA, and let us know how it goes.

Paipe90GTA

well after a black eye from the air bag and a whole lot of cussin it still dosnt seem to work.

J/P

It went really well it only took about 2 1/2 hrs from start to finish (most of which was spent trying to fish the wire through the column) i did get a scare when we tryed to start it because of the new cylinder and key didnt seem to fit right but after a while it went in. Other than that its started right up everytime and no more code 46 . Thanks for everyone that helped. :rockon: