code 32, only at 65mph+
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Howell, NJ
Car: '87 TransAM
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
code 32, only at 65mph+
hey guys, new to the board, ive got an 89 ta 305 tpi 183k, SES light comes on but only after 10-15 mins of parkway driving, but if i do below 60mph it wont come on, light goes off when i turn car off, doesnt come back on unless i go on the parkway.
ive searched and found a few different topics on code 32 and EGR, but i figured i might be able to pinpoint whats broke easier if i asked, since it doesn't stay on, and ive got alot of miles on the car.
also, ive seen some diagram images for diagnosing the problem, but will that come in handy since the engine is idle in park when im testing, since the problem only seems to kick the light on at high speeds for a few minutes
Rob
ive searched and found a few different topics on code 32 and EGR, but i figured i might be able to pinpoint whats broke easier if i asked, since it doesn't stay on, and ive got alot of miles on the car.
also, ive seen some diagram images for diagnosing the problem, but will that come in handy since the engine is idle in park when im testing, since the problem only seems to kick the light on at high speeds for a few minutes
Rob
sting,
Welcome Aboard!
The problem you are describing is not uncommon. The only time the EGR should be active is at part-throttle cruise under light load (as in freeway driving). Fortunately, the problem isn't severe, and you should be able to drive the care without risk of further damaging anything. Unfortunately, you still need to repair the problem.
The EGR is operated by vacuum. That vacuum is switched by the EGR solenoid, which is directly controlled by the ECM. The ECM will get a signal from a temperature switch at the base of the EGR valve if/when it opens on command. It's about that simple, yet not.
As for hardware, there may be problems with the vacuum source and lines, the EGR solenoid, the EGR valve itself, the EGR temperature diagnostic sensor, the ECM, wiring, or some other extraneous possibilities. The more common problems are the vacuum lines and the EGR valve failing or being blocked by carbon deposits.
This guide might help:

What you are facing if you have to access the EGR valve itself is:

The EGR solenoid is a little easier to access:

But the EGR temperature sensor is not as easy:

Good luck in your project. Check back if you have any questions/comments/problems.
Welcome Aboard!
The problem you are describing is not uncommon. The only time the EGR should be active is at part-throttle cruise under light load (as in freeway driving). Fortunately, the problem isn't severe, and you should be able to drive the care without risk of further damaging anything. Unfortunately, you still need to repair the problem.
The EGR is operated by vacuum. That vacuum is switched by the EGR solenoid, which is directly controlled by the ECM. The ECM will get a signal from a temperature switch at the base of the EGR valve if/when it opens on command. It's about that simple, yet not.
As for hardware, there may be problems with the vacuum source and lines, the EGR solenoid, the EGR valve itself, the EGR temperature diagnostic sensor, the ECM, wiring, or some other extraneous possibilities. The more common problems are the vacuum lines and the EGR valve failing or being blocked by carbon deposits.
This guide might help:

What you are facing if you have to access the EGR valve itself is:

The EGR solenoid is a little easier to access:

But the EGR temperature sensor is not as easy:

Good luck in your project. Check back if you have any questions/comments/problems.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Howell, NJ
Car: '87 TransAM
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
wow, thanks alot that's a really big help, i'll try working on that this week and post if it worked or not
..and 65mph is the speed limit on the parkway :P
..and 65mph is the speed limit on the parkway :P
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