I am going to a swap meet this weekend and I am lookingto pick up a block or engine to start my carb buildup. IS there anything I should be looking for when trying to find a goodblock? Also What casting numbers should I look for?Thanks

 

no ridge, 4 bolt mains in 2 piece seal blocks. i'd look for a one piece seal block. castings are all the same, more or less

 

thanks for the reply...the only quesiton I have is...What does no ridge mean?

 

Cylinder wear causes a ridge to form at the top of the cylinder.

 

Check out http://www.mortec.com for info on casting numbers. It all boils down to what you want. 4 bolt or 2 bolt mains, 1 or 2 piece rms, provisions for roller lifters, it all depends. that site will have the info you need.

Ridge is excessive piston ring wear in the bores. To check for it take your finger nail and see if you can catch a "edge" towards the top of the bore. Also take something along with you that is as close to 4.000" as possible. One to see if it is a virgin block, two so you don't get a 305. Say you happen upon a 350 that has been bored .030" over and there is a noticable ridge at the top, I would probably stay away from it.

 

I asked this on the carb board, but they told me to ask here...I am planning on using this block for a carb buildup making about 375hp at the flywheel. This car is going to mainly be a weekend warrior with maybeabout 5 trips to the track a season. Would it be beneficial to my setup to go with a roller block? Thanks

 

Well, I used to be able to pick one up by myself.
Now I need a couple of other guys to do the heavy lifting.
Take someone with ya that knows about these things.

Line boring is an added expense.
Don't even look at one without the main caps in place.
Make sure the caps are marked so you'll know they are in the correct position. (Make SURE they are in the marked position) or you could be buying one where soemone just threw any old caps on there.

Try to get a standard bore one with less ridge in it than you can catch with your fingernail.

If you can get a whole short/long block unmolested (together) that will be a half descent bet.

Remember it's a crap shoot, 50-50 what the blocks been through when you buy from strangers.

Could be busted, could have been REALLY overheated.
Could just be a boat anchor and you can't tell just by visual inspection.

Be careful, take your time and be choosy.
Good luck.

 

The cost of an unfinished bare block is insignificant compared to the cost of machine work. Considering that you're inexperienced at knowing what to pick, it might be advisable to buy a block that's already machined or possibly a shortblock from a reputable shop.
Key word: Reputable
Overall, there wouldn't be any real savings with getting a bare block.

On the other hand, you might find a deal on a used engine that's complete and doesn't need a lot of work. In which case, it could be to your advantage to buy, especially if it's a nice one.

If you're new to this, my suggestion would be a roller block.
A vortec engine from a truck would be a good choice.

You didn't mention whether you're wanting to rebuild this engine, or you just want something that you can put into your car with a few bolt ons, and go play.

Oh... And don't forget to bend your knees and keep your back straight.

 

blocks with 010 on the side are high nickel content block, which are a little big stronger, but not really enough to worry about, i'd maybe pay 25 bucks more for a 010 vs a non 010 if everything else was the same.

 

Buy or borrow a pair of dial or digital calipers, they can be had for $20-30 on E-bay, measure the bore of any block you find, if it's already 4.030 or bigger keep looking.

 

well i plan on rebuilding the engine and I am going to keep it out of the car for awhile to mod it to my tastes. I was thinking of getting a new or freshly machined block, but I wasnt really sur eof the price as compared to a used one thats in good shape, or even a short block that is in good shape. Thanks for all of the responses.

 

i also considered going the vortec engine and carbing it...but I really ont know if I want to go that route...

 

Yes, good machine work is where the money will be spent if you buy an unfinished block. However, that is where you want to spend the money. A flat deck surface, untapered round bores, quality honing with a torque plate, all comes at a price, however it is well worth it in the end.
A Vortec 350 is probably the best bang for the buck engine you could do. Find a 350 vortec long block, rebuild it, and get some work done on the heads. Again, with the heads, you get what you pay for.
I guess it kinda depends on your budget. But a Vortec 350 would be a good choice.

 

To me there are few reasons not to go with a vortec, especially if you see a nice one out there.
If you're going to be investing in an intake system anyhow, whether it be carb or EFI, you'll still have to buy the parts, so they might as well be vortec parts.
Unless you want aluminum heads, or block.

Actually there are other choices that could be good ones though.
An LT1 engine could be a good choice too.
But if you want to run a distributor, don't get an LT1.

 

Can a decent amount of power be made with a Carbed Vortec 350 and the right comboof parts? Are there alot of aftermarket parts available for the vortec? And besides the heads and intake, the Vortec isjust like any other SBC right?