I was at the yard looking for other stuff today..and ran across a 9" in an old truck that measured an ideal length to be adapted into a thirdgen. I plan on going back to buy it probably this weekend. I have some questions.

I assume the bolt circle won't fit my wheels. Anyone know for sure? does anyone make replacment axles with the proper pattern?

What does it take to adapt the driveshaft?

Who makes an adapter to fit the torque arm, and how much is it? would I be better off just fabbing some ladder bars?

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Any after market company can provide axles (Moser Strange Currie etc). Or you could use unilug rims, but those kinda suck. Use conversion u-joints to mate the joint to the diff. As for the torque arm mount, I'd like an answer to that too. I've been told SOMEONE makes a bracket to mount it to the diff......but nobody seems to remember the company. I'm kinda leaning towards ladder bars myself.

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I believe the older truck 9inch rears had 26 spline axles, which made for a weaker link.

Either that, or something about the truck rears are different (other than the bolt pattern) that makes them less desirable.

 

I have one just like that. You'll need the axles just to get the measurements for aftermarket ones. When you order new axles, you can get them in any bolt pattern. Your chev wheels won't fit on any ford axle unless the rims are dual bolt pattern. If the bolt pattern is very large then it's the ford 5 on 5 1/2".

Depending on the yoke used on the 9" your driveshaft may need to be lengthened or shortened. You'll also need an adaptor u-joint and that also depends on the ford yoke. They're not all the same. If the driveshaft length needs to be changed, it's just as easy to put a ford yoke on the end of it and run a standard ford u-joint.

Moser used to sell the torque arm adaptor seperatly but to my knowledge they don't any more. It's mounted to brackets that are welded to the housing. My guess is that they can't guarentee their product when someone else has to weld on the mounting points for the mounting bracket.

Ladder bars is easy however I mocked up a set on my car. The front crossmember will fit perfectly between my sub frame connectors but the rear floor will have to be cut and modified to clear the ladder bars since the diff sits up so high in the body (or the floor is very low depending on how you look at it)

If you're willing to do some custon fabrication work then it can be cheaper to use a junkyard diff but when you look at a Moser bolt-in assembly available from Steve Spohn it can save you a lot of time and headaches buying a new assembly. You don't need to buy the center section. Depending on the gear ratio you want, you can find any center section in the junk yard that will work. Then order the Moser housing (with axles) with the correct spline count for the center section.

I currently have a center section sitting here waiting for my 10 bolt to blow up. 4.56 gears, 31 spline spool. All I need is the diff housing and axles and it's ready to go in. Going to 4.56 gears will mean I need to go to 29 or 30" tall tires though.

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I have a 9" set up for a camaro that i want to get rid of. it has 4.11:1 gears, moser axles, moser mini spool, aerospace disc brakes, south side lift bars, and weld draglites. asking price $2000. email me at stroked342@aol.com
thanks
chris

 

Ohhh...only missed it by one year

 

wow..this post IS almost a year old. How the hell did it get brought back up?

 

SatisTraction added his classified to many of the older 9" topics in many of the boards bringing them back up.

 

WE can fix that...