Distributer Hold-down bolt
Distributer Hold-down bolt
I am trying to adjust the timing on my '91 formula 350. I can see that the hold down bolt isn't easy to get at. I went to Adavanced Auto Parts and bought an offset box end wrench that was specifically for this, but when I got home...of course...it still won't get to the bolt. What tools have you guys bought or made for getting to the bolt. Thanks.
A distirbuter wrench (liek it sounds like you got) should work fine. It takes a bit of manuvering sometimes..but there is no real trick to it.
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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports
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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports
Well, I used a 9/16 box wrench that I heated and shaped with my torch... but, i found that one of those universal joint sockets with a socket built onto one end works even better... it just makes it under the distributor cap.. good luck...
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Owner of a 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, a.k.a. "The Babe Magnet". Painted a cheap metallic blue that chips off all too easily and covers over the IROC-Z decals on the doors, also has non-leaking T-tops, ps, pw, power rear hatch, working A/C. Mods: SLP intake runners, gutted MAF sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, modified air spoil, 3.27 posi rear end.
Broken stuff: rear spoiler brake light, driver side lock, power antenna, tilt steering, rear end bushings, cracked passanger side ground effect, washer fluid tab, leaking exhaust and a rotted through muffler that sparks when the car bottoms out while driving like any 17 year old does.
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Owner of a 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, a.k.a. "The Babe Magnet". Painted a cheap metallic blue that chips off all too easily and covers over the IROC-Z decals on the doors, also has non-leaking T-tops, ps, pw, power rear hatch, working A/C. Mods: SLP intake runners, gutted MAF sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, modified air spoil, 3.27 posi rear end.
Broken stuff: rear spoiler brake light, driver side lock, power antenna, tilt steering, rear end bushings, cracked passanger side ground effect, washer fluid tab, leaking exhaust and a rotted through muffler that sparks when the car bottoms out while driving like any 17 year old does.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
Yeah, your problem is most likely that it is a true PITA to get to the hold down bolt with the EGR solenoid and coil there on a TPI car. I was able to get to mine (with a craftsman dist. wrench) just by taking the vacuum lines off the solenoid and carefully (hahaha) turning it so as not to break the nipples off the solenoid. It probbaly would be easier for a first timer if you remove/move those parts as E suggests...
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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-
- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die
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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-
- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die
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