car wont start at temp above normal
car wont start at temp above normal
drove a few hours to grand bend in ontario, car fine when we got there, but on second day it started to create radio interference but still worked, then later on we were in traffic and it just stalled and wouldnt refire, but after we left it for a couple hours it fired right up. Then on the ride home it would quit when we were driving, so i checked it out, i took off the cap and cleaned it, checked the coil---spark there, but then checked the wires and no spark there so we left it and it fired up after 15 min. so i figured when the distributer got hot it would shut down, so we put ice on it and let it cool for a few minutes and it started right up, has this ever happened to any of you??? what would it be, the car is a 88 iroc with 350 tpi. could it be the magnetic trigger in the distributer or something that is heat sensitive??? please help
Well, not that's odd isn't it?
The only thing I can think of off hand in the dstributor is the ignition module. But that normally goes bad once and never works again.
So you had spark getting from the coil to the dist, but not out of it. How did you check this? Here is my hillbilly way to check simple ignition stuff, I use a timing light. Just clip it on the wire in question and pull the trigger. If the coil is firing, but it is not getting out of the distributor, replace the cap, rotor, and possibly the wires it they are arching.
Not much help I know, but good luck!
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1989 Lt. Blue RS 5-speed
355 crate motor, Compucam 2040,
PST Front suspension,
Hotchkis rear suspension,
EDL T.E.S., 3" Flowmaster
Harwood cowl hood
1994 Black Z28 6-speed
Nothing major, but FUN!
The only thing I can think of off hand in the dstributor is the ignition module. But that normally goes bad once and never works again.
So you had spark getting from the coil to the dist, but not out of it. How did you check this? Here is my hillbilly way to check simple ignition stuff, I use a timing light. Just clip it on the wire in question and pull the trigger. If the coil is firing, but it is not getting out of the distributor, replace the cap, rotor, and possibly the wires it they are arching.
Not much help I know, but good luck!
------------------
1989 Lt. Blue RS 5-speed
355 crate motor, Compucam 2040,
PST Front suspension,
Hotchkis rear suspension,
EDL T.E.S., 3" Flowmaster
Harwood cowl hood
1994 Black Z28 6-speed
Nothing major, but FUN!
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 893
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From: Hayward, CA
Car: 91 camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: T56
Actually ignition modules can act up only when they're hot. I've seen it several times before. So I'd guess that's what your problem is, except a bad module won't give you a spark at the coil. Weird. Once spark is initiated at the coil, only a mechanical problem, not electrical, could stop it. Like a bad cap, rotor, or coil wire. But I don't think any of those things would go bad only when hot. But ignition modules are notorious for that. You can get the module checked at a parts store. Make sure they check it a bunch of times in a row to make sure it gets warmed up. Sometimes they'll pass the first few tests, then fail.
As for the radio interference, beats me. A certain type of spark plug wires can cause it, that's all I know.
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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...
As for the radio interference, beats me. A certain type of spark plug wires can cause it, that's all I know.
------------------
91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...
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