adjusting the lifters cold
adjusting the lifters cold
hey group,
I am getting ready to put in some work on my bird, it has been about a year since it was drove. I have been looking for the information about what pattern is needed to correctly adjust the lifters when the engine is not running, I know that to do it right one cylinder has to be all the way up, and another all the way down, I just do not know the pairs, such as 1 is up while 3 is down, if anyone out there has this please post it up, help me get my bird back on the road!
Thanks
I am getting ready to put in some work on my bird, it has been about a year since it was drove. I have been looking for the information about what pattern is needed to correctly adjust the lifters when the engine is not running, I know that to do it right one cylinder has to be all the way up, and another all the way down, I just do not know the pairs, such as 1 is up while 3 is down, if anyone out there has this please post it up, help me get my bird back on the road!
Thanks
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
The best way (for me) when the engine is off is to mark the balancer into 4 equal quadrants, starting with a line where the "0" timing etching is. Put a white line (I have a silver Sharpie for this) at that etching. Make equal markings at 90°, 180°, and 270° from the TDC etching (the balancer should be divided into 4 equal slices).
That etching represents #1 tdc (either compression or exhaust, as there are 2 TDC positions per combustion cycle). Assuming the etched mark represents TDC accuratly, rotate the engine, by hand, to #1 TDC. Look at the rocker arms. If they are both closed, then you are on #1 TDC firing. If the exhaust is open, rotate the engine one more rotation (the engine is on #6 firing). Either way, when the #1 is on firing, both valves should be fully closed. You can now adjust the lash for the #1 cylinder. Then, rotate the engine 90° clockwise to the next etched marking. This is the next cylinder in the firing order. Both valves on this cyl. should be fully closed now and you can set the lash. Remember, the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. So, as you turn the dizzy, in 90° incriments, you set the lash in that order. You will end up doing 2 complete rotations of the crankshaft.
That etching represents #1 tdc (either compression or exhaust, as there are 2 TDC positions per combustion cycle). Assuming the etched mark represents TDC accuratly, rotate the engine, by hand, to #1 TDC. Look at the rocker arms. If they are both closed, then you are on #1 TDC firing. If the exhaust is open, rotate the engine one more rotation (the engine is on #6 firing). Either way, when the #1 is on firing, both valves should be fully closed. You can now adjust the lash for the #1 cylinder. Then, rotate the engine 90° clockwise to the next etched marking. This is the next cylinder in the firing order. Both valves on this cyl. should be fully closed now and you can set the lash. Remember, the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. So, as you turn the dizzy, in 90° incriments, you set the lash in that order. You will end up doing 2 complete rotations of the crankshaft.
Listen to Stekman, he is giving you the best way to do it.
That is the way that I do it, and I have never had to readjust a valve. I use that method on new engines and after breakin have never had to readjust any valves. Definately the way to do it.
That is the way that I do it, and I have never had to readjust a valve. I use that method on new engines and after breakin have never had to readjust any valves. Definately the way to do it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dimented24x7
Tech / General Engine
4
Sep 6, 2015 03:51 PM





