Manual/shifting Tips
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Chesterfield VA
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 305 HO
Manual/shifting Tips
i am looking for any tips having to do with shifting when racing. ANYTHING...an is there really something called "double-clutching"...thanks in advanced...
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
You don't need to double clutch, your tranny has syncro's. Don't race with your T5 anyway it will go snap, crackle and pop.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
my experiences with a manual doesnt relate to the Camaro, unless it's the same in all cars.
In my Toyota truck, I have to double clutch to go from 1st gear to Reverse, it wont get the solenoid out of the way otherwise.
Powershifting - Gas kept to the floor between shifts, and go from one gear to the next dumping the clutch every time along the way
Double clutching - put clutch in to get it out of gear and put in reverse, release clutch, then put clutch back in to put in another gear.
If there's any other ways to drive a manual aside from the traditional way feel free to chime in. And if I'm wrong about double clutching feel free to tell me heh.
In my Toyota truck, I have to double clutch to go from 1st gear to Reverse, it wont get the solenoid out of the way otherwise.
Powershifting - Gas kept to the floor between shifts, and go from one gear to the next dumping the clutch every time along the way
Double clutching - put clutch in to get it out of gear and put in reverse, release clutch, then put clutch back in to put in another gear.
If there's any other ways to drive a manual aside from the traditional way feel free to chime in. And if I'm wrong about double clutching feel free to tell me heh.
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From: cali
Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
driving with one foot is pwrshifting or speedshifting if ur driving with 2 feet its called drivin like a grandma
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From: BC Canada
Car: 1985 pontiac trans am
Engine: 350 with carb and headers
Transmission: borg warner 5speed
best advise i can give you is to keep your foot off the gas when your in between gears. Like when your driving along, you shift to your next gear and only give it gas after you've let out the clutch. (or mostly let out the clutch)
Ive heard people say that if you do it at the right RPM you can shift with out the clutch- but ive never done that with my T5. Your most likley gonna clash gears that way. (although ive done it on my dirt bike)
Also another tip i have for you- this is something that i always do but alot of people dont, -is when im waiting at a stop light i put it into neutral and let out the clutch. this just saves a little wear and tear on the pressure plate and the throw out bearing.
My T5 tranny was obviously used and abused by previous owners. The shifter is often stiff in first and second. Sometimes it's so stiff i cant get it into first all the way- and when i take off i hear a loud bump and it pop's into neutral.
Also it almost always clashes when i try to get it into reverse. My trick for this is - I put it into neutral, let out the clutch, push the clutch in again, slide it into first and then into reverse. this usualy gets me in to reverse without clashing. kindof a pain tho.
Ive heard people say that if you do it at the right RPM you can shift with out the clutch- but ive never done that with my T5. Your most likley gonna clash gears that way. (although ive done it on my dirt bike)
Also another tip i have for you- this is something that i always do but alot of people dont, -is when im waiting at a stop light i put it into neutral and let out the clutch. this just saves a little wear and tear on the pressure plate and the throw out bearing.
My T5 tranny was obviously used and abused by previous owners. The shifter is often stiff in first and second. Sometimes it's so stiff i cant get it into first all the way- and when i take off i hear a loud bump and it pop's into neutral.
Also it almost always clashes when i try to get it into reverse. My trick for this is - I put it into neutral, let out the clutch, push the clutch in again, slide it into first and then into reverse. this usualy gets me in to reverse without clashing. kindof a pain tho.
Last edited by manchesterbeast; Nov 25, 2004 at 11:52 AM.
Originally posted by ME Leigh
You don't need to double clutch, your tranny has syncro's. Don't race with your T5 anyway it will go snap, crackle and pop.
You don't need to double clutch, your tranny has syncro's. Don't race with your T5 anyway it will go snap, crackle and pop.
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
i continously flog the snot out of my T5 and its taken everything ive thrown at it...when i race people my right foot never comes off the floor, and i powershift it off the 6,300rpm revlimiter...
you can upshift quite easily without using the clutch, although its hard on the shift fork pads..
you can upshift quite easily without using the clutch, although its hard on the shift fork pads..
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 818
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From: Hudson, FL USA
Car: 1988 Camaro(92 Z28 clone)
Engine: Forged 383, AFR 195 419/430@wheels
Transmission: Monster 700R4 Yank 3600 stall
Axle/Gears: 9in Detroit locker-3.90's,35 spline
I always thought that double clutching was used for down shifting/rev matching. That's what I do when I am coming into a turn real fast and try to slow down. If you d shift in the turn, the rear will lose traction and you'll spin out. Instead, before you enter the turn just pop it into neutral(no clutch) rev the engine, and then clutch in, shift into the lower gear, and dump the clutch. When the car goes into gear, it will already be at the rpm it is supposed to be at so it won't unload the drivetrain. It takes a while to get the procedure down, and you really have to know your car well enough to know what rpm the engine wll be at when you d shift.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Originally posted by paulmoore
I always thought that double clutching was used for down shifting/rev matching. That's what I do when I am coming into a turn real fast and try to slow down. If you d shift in the turn, the rear will lose traction and you'll spin out. Instead, before you enter the turn just pop it into neutral(no clutch) rev the engine, and then clutch in, shift into the lower gear, and dump the clutch. When the car goes into gear, it will already be at the rpm it is supposed to be at so it won't unload the drivetrain. It takes a while to get the procedure down, and you really have to know your car well enough to know what rpm the engine wll be at when you d shift.
I always thought that double clutching was used for down shifting/rev matching. That's what I do when I am coming into a turn real fast and try to slow down. If you d shift in the turn, the rear will lose traction and you'll spin out. Instead, before you enter the turn just pop it into neutral(no clutch) rev the engine, and then clutch in, shift into the lower gear, and dump the clutch. When the car goes into gear, it will already be at the rpm it is supposed to be at so it won't unload the drivetrain. It takes a while to get the procedure down, and you really have to know your car well enough to know what rpm the engine wll be at when you d shift.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 818
Likes: 1
From: Hudson, FL USA
Car: 1988 Camaro(92 Z28 clone)
Engine: Forged 383, AFR 195 419/430@wheels
Transmission: Monster 700R4 Yank 3600 stall
Axle/Gears: 9in Detroit locker-3.90's,35 spline
My bad, I thought they were similar
Some of the people that I know that drive sticks actually use the clutch to shift into neutral then rev the engine to d shift wheras i figured out that if you just let off the gas the engine/trans are already at the same rpm, you can just pop it into neutral without the clutch.
Some of the people that I know that drive sticks actually use the clutch to shift into neutral then rev the engine to d shift wheras i figured out that if you just let off the gas the engine/trans are already at the same rpm, you can just pop it into neutral without the clutch. Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 370
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From: MN
Car: 91 rs
Engine: 250
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock??
well this end of summer my master cyl started to go... so you jusr rpm match it. let of the gas into nuetle kinda put some pressure on it to the enxt gear then it slides right in and off you go this is so i wouldn't have to wear down my MC. but i always thouhg power shifting was you give a lil gas while you shifting. like you don't get al the way off. so you have a lil power and go next gear it shaved .2 off my 1/4 time but didn't sound to good to do. so i stoped. double clutching is... as so i've been told by to many people is clutch nuetrule off clutch then clutch the next gear.. but i'm probally worng
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by ME Leigh
You don't need to double clutch, your tranny has syncro's. Don't race with your T5 anyway it will go snap, crackle and pop.
You don't need to double clutch, your tranny has syncro's. Don't race with your T5 anyway it will go snap, crackle and pop.
-- Joe
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,989
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From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
My friend showed me a way to shift really fast in his dad's car.. All he did was jam it into and out of gear, never touched the clutch. He showed it to me once, and it went ggggggggGUNK *grind* really loud, and he said "wow, it didnt make much noise that time"
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 93
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From: Hershey PA
Car: '89 IROC Z
Engine: TPI 305
Transmission: T-5
To prevent gear clash when going into reverse on a T-5, simply move the stick to 2nd or 4th gear before going into reverse and you will eliminate the gear clash. This works on manual transmissions other than the T-5 as well.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 1
From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Originally posted by anesthes
Yeah man. Don't spend 5 years racing with a T5, you might run as fast as me!
-- Joe
Yeah man. Don't spend 5 years racing with a T5, you might run as fast as me!
-- Joe
THis is a stock T5 we are talking about here.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by ME Leigh
I guess our definition of racing is different. By your definition i am racing every time i drive my car.
THis is a stock T5 we are talking about here.
I guess our definition of racing is different. By your definition i am racing every time i drive my car.
THis is a stock T5 we are talking about here.
You end up selling those heads? Someone was looking for a set the other day and I forgot your nick.
-- Joe
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 1
From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Still for sale, thanks.
You guys must have the later upgraded WC T5's.
You guys must have the later upgraded WC T5's.
Last edited by ME Leigh; Nov 26, 2004 at 07:16 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 801
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From: st. Petersburg, Fla
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: vortec 305 for now
Transmission: 5 speed
Yes the T-5 will eventually go bang, but with enough HP so will everything else.
Let's discuss "powershifting" or "speedshifting". Normally you dump the clutch to launch the car, then, with your foot firmly planted on the gas pedal, you tap the clutch enough to cause a momentary power interuption, as you do this, you will yank the shifter into the next gear. (Practice, practice, practice.)
Now, carve this into your forehead-1 The T5 doesn't have a limiting device to keep you from overshifting it. Therefore, you will need an aftermarket shifter that has stop bolts on it. If you over-shift it you'll shove the slider past the energizer springs and possibly into the gear set. This is a very bad thing.
Carve this into your forhead-2 You WILL need a power interuption to change gears, there are no currently manufactured transmisssions that allow you to just "yank" the car into the next gear during acceleration w/o the clutch. Even in formula-1. the computer "burps" the engine in order to allow the shift.
There are several types of trannies, most OEM stuff has angle cut gears to keep the noise down, these are not as strong as straight cut gears.
Most transmissions with straight cut or competition gears use a dog ring and not synchros in order to engage the next gear. These are much more durable.
Planetary transmisssions, (Lencos) are always engaged in some gear, they are shifted by applying pressure to the different gear sets (planetary, sun.etc.) there are no synchros. These trannies are most akin to an automatic in theory of operation, therefore they CAN be shifted without a power interuption. They are also modular, if you need more gears, just add another Lenco to the back of the one already there. These are used in Top Fuel, Funny Car and Pro-Stock
Double clutching, this is performed by running the engine up in a gear, then clutch in- shifter neutral-clutch out, clutch back in-shifter in next gear-clutch out to make the change up. To make the change down it's clutch in- shifter neutral-clutch out, rev engine-clutch in-shifter down-clutch back out. This is best done by using a method called "heel and toe". where the clutch/brake and gas are manipulated at the same time.
This types of transmission does not use a dog or synchro so the rpm needs to be matched to the gear that is chosen. These types are used in things from dump trucks to firetrucks to Indy cars and competition turbo Porsches (962-956) to formula atlantics. If you are really good, you can shift these without using the clutch. When the rpms match up, you let off the gas and the shifter can be pulled into the next gear, the down works the same way except you throw in a rev on the downshift. (I've masterred the firetruck, I haven't tried the Indy car
).
That's about all there is to it.
If you want to stop the reverse gear clash try this. With the car stationary, place the shifter in a forward gear before going into reverse.
Let's discuss "powershifting" or "speedshifting". Normally you dump the clutch to launch the car, then, with your foot firmly planted on the gas pedal, you tap the clutch enough to cause a momentary power interuption, as you do this, you will yank the shifter into the next gear. (Practice, practice, practice.)
Now, carve this into your forehead-1 The T5 doesn't have a limiting device to keep you from overshifting it. Therefore, you will need an aftermarket shifter that has stop bolts on it. If you over-shift it you'll shove the slider past the energizer springs and possibly into the gear set. This is a very bad thing.
Carve this into your forhead-2 You WILL need a power interuption to change gears, there are no currently manufactured transmisssions that allow you to just "yank" the car into the next gear during acceleration w/o the clutch. Even in formula-1. the computer "burps" the engine in order to allow the shift.
There are several types of trannies, most OEM stuff has angle cut gears to keep the noise down, these are not as strong as straight cut gears.
Most transmissions with straight cut or competition gears use a dog ring and not synchros in order to engage the next gear. These are much more durable.
Planetary transmisssions, (Lencos) are always engaged in some gear, they are shifted by applying pressure to the different gear sets (planetary, sun.etc.) there are no synchros. These trannies are most akin to an automatic in theory of operation, therefore they CAN be shifted without a power interuption. They are also modular, if you need more gears, just add another Lenco to the back of the one already there. These are used in Top Fuel, Funny Car and Pro-Stock
Double clutching, this is performed by running the engine up in a gear, then clutch in- shifter neutral-clutch out, clutch back in-shifter in next gear-clutch out to make the change up. To make the change down it's clutch in- shifter neutral-clutch out, rev engine-clutch in-shifter down-clutch back out. This is best done by using a method called "heel and toe". where the clutch/brake and gas are manipulated at the same time.
This types of transmission does not use a dog or synchro so the rpm needs to be matched to the gear that is chosen. These types are used in things from dump trucks to firetrucks to Indy cars and competition turbo Porsches (962-956) to formula atlantics. If you are really good, you can shift these without using the clutch. When the rpms match up, you let off the gas and the shifter can be pulled into the next gear, the down works the same way except you throw in a rev on the downshift. (I've masterred the firetruck, I haven't tried the Indy car
).That's about all there is to it.
If you want to stop the reverse gear clash try this. With the car stationary, place the shifter in a forward gear before going into reverse.
Last edited by blacksheep-1; Nov 29, 2004 at 11:03 AM.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 1
From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
I mastered a International 4900 DT-466E, but its always easier to shift using the clutch. It's almost impossible to downshift without double clutching down.
Originally posted by ME Leigh
I mastered a International 4900 DT-466E, but its always easier to shift using the clutch. It's almost impossible to downshift without double clutching down.
I mastered a International 4900 DT-466E, but its always easier to shift using the clutch. It's almost impossible to downshift without double clutching down.
Same thing will apply to a T5 in a car.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 1
From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Usually i just double and match revs, so i don't miss a shift. Sometimes if i'm going really slow i can just match.
Last edited by ME Leigh; Nov 29, 2004 at 11:29 PM.
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Posts: 3,383
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Originally posted by SLP IROC-Z
a t5 can handle alot of abuse. a stock 700R4 isnt exactly a durable transmission either....
a t5 can handle alot of abuse. a stock 700R4 isnt exactly a durable transmission either....
i've been in a car that shifted from od into reverse doing 70 km/h and the tranny worked just fine afterwords.
scared the crap outta all of us but thats a different story
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by kretos
actually the 700r4 was one of the best trannys brought out by gm, used in tones of different vehicles.
i've been in a car that shifted from od into reverse doing 70 km/h and the tranny worked just fine afterwords.
scared the crap outta all of us but thats a different story
actually the 700r4 was one of the best trannys brought out by gm, used in tones of different vehicles.
i've been in a car that shifted from od into reverse doing 70 km/h and the tranny worked just fine afterwords.
scared the crap outta all of us but thats a different story
lucky for me (no passengers to witness thank ***) GM made safety precautions to stop human error/stupidity Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,866
Likes: 5
From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt
Originally posted by kretos
actually the 700r4 was one of the best trannys brought out by gm, used in tones of different vehicles.
i've been in a car that shifted from od into reverse doing 70 km/h and the tranny worked just fine afterwords.
scared the crap outta all of us but thats a different story
actually the 700r4 was one of the best trannys brought out by gm, used in tones of different vehicles.
i've been in a car that shifted from od into reverse doing 70 km/h and the tranny worked just fine afterwords.
scared the crap outta all of us but thats a different story
LoL, its the best tranny because its used in a lot of vehicles? even though thats a really weak arguement (no pun intended) im pretty sure T5s were used in more cars then 700s were, and even with other car manufactures.
i guess because ive gone from 3rd to 2nd at 85mph with my T5 that makes it totally way awesome dude?
the fact of the matter is neither tranny is extremely durable, so i dont understand why people get aall OMMFGGG DONT EVER SWAP IN A T5 ITLL EXPLODEEE INTO OUTER SPACE AS SOON AS U RELEASE THE CLUTCHHHhh. pretty much people consider something "junk" if u cant do abscure things to it and have it last.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 63
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From: hopkinton, MA
Car: 1992 trans am ws6
Engine: l98
Transmission: t-56
double clutching is for the fast and the furious. forget about it.
i don't know how to launch well, but to shift you just stab the clutch, let off the gas momentarily (some people leave the gas mashed but you gotta shift REAL quick or you'll be redlinin REAL quick) and shift.
i think i start my shift before the clutch is even in, but by the time i'm past neutral and goin into the next gear the clutch is disengaged. i don't bog at all and shift pretty quick. Powershifting a lot is NOT good for your tranny though (but i suppose that hasn't stopped me...)
i don't know how to launch well, but to shift you just stab the clutch, let off the gas momentarily (some people leave the gas mashed but you gotta shift REAL quick or you'll be redlinin REAL quick) and shift.
i think i start my shift before the clutch is even in, but by the time i'm past neutral and goin into the next gear the clutch is disengaged. i don't bog at all and shift pretty quick. Powershifting a lot is NOT good for your tranny though (but i suppose that hasn't stopped me...)
Last edited by incus86; Nov 30, 2004 at 10:37 AM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by incus86
double clutching is for the fast and the furious. forget about it.
i don't know how to launch well, but to shift you just stab the clutch, let off the gas momentarily (some people leave the gas mashed but you gotta shift REAL quick or you'll be redlinin REAL quick) and shift.
i think i start my shift before the clutch is even in, but by the time i'm past neutral and goin into the next gear the clutch is disengaged. i don't bog at all and shift pretty quick. Powershifting a lot is NOT good for your tranny though (but i suppose that hasn't stopped me...)
double clutching is for the fast and the furious. forget about it.
i don't know how to launch well, but to shift you just stab the clutch, let off the gas momentarily (some people leave the gas mashed but you gotta shift REAL quick or you'll be redlinin REAL quick) and shift.
i think i start my shift before the clutch is even in, but by the time i'm past neutral and goin into the next gear the clutch is disengaged. i don't bog at all and shift pretty quick. Powershifting a lot is NOT good for your tranny though (but i suppose that hasn't stopped me...)
I do that on my truck all the time (yes, I'm mean to it
), it is so much funner to get that foot action going and get pinned back into your seat... iunno
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
From: st. Petersburg, Fla
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: vortec 305 for now
Transmission: 5 speed
It's faster to keep your foot in it and just hit the clutch for the disengagement.
You diesel guys are cheatin!!! you have WWAAAYYYY too many gears to ever miss one
. What's the spacing between ratios 1-tooth
?
I watched a Pete (without the trailer of course) put in on a rycer one day, It was a true classic. Trucker was laughing his *** off and so were the rest of us.
You diesel guys are cheatin!!! you have WWAAAYYYY too many gears to ever miss one
. What's the spacing between ratios 1-tooth
?I watched a Pete (without the trailer of course) put in on a rycer one day, It was a true classic. Trucker was laughing his *** off and so were the rest of us.
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