92 camaro rs ?...any way to change fuel pumps without dropping the gast tank (3rd time) ...can we go thru the trunk and put in a plate afterwards?

 

I just had this done recently. To my knowledge you have to drop the tank.

 

there's a thin panel right where the fuel pump is in the trunk under the carpet....

 

Yes, you can cut a "trap door" in the top of the hump to gain access to the fuel pump. Here's a link with some good links on how and what to do:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=264787


P.S. Just be aware that a lot of people consider it a "hack job" (just read all of the link I gave you) and will probably post their opinions on it here blatantly. These threads always end up getting locked . So be prepared.

 

all things considered maybe we'd better drop the tank rather than lower the value of the car..because I love my car It's a 25th aniversary convertable and beeutiful...thanks for the info and links...momybear

 

I ran it out of gas ..then the pump wouldn't come on ..the next morning it worked for awhile but then it started cutting out and died..now if you tap the gas tank the pump will work for a short time then quit...we put a new fuel pump in 2 months ago.(drooped the tank twice)..could it be something else...loose wire or something?

 

That almost sounds like you have dirt or something in the tank. Over in Iraq we had several generators that when you fill them with fuel it would stir up the dirt and clog the fuel filter. Its just an Idea and might not be right but I would try changing the filter.

 

Ok well...did it the right way dropped the tank and in less that 3 hours was done...found out the new pump was not new just reset...now what to do about the ase mechanic that charged 700 to replace it last time...shoot him maybe glad tho that we did ourselves and the right way.....momybear

 

Wow, he told you he replaced it and did not? I would be a little P"ssed off too. That is bad buisiness.

 

it having been done 2 months ago it should have been covered under warranty if the shop supplied the parts.
90 days on the labor is the standard time for most things down here.
on parts it varies, depending on where the part came from it starts at no warranty & goes up to life time.

so you know, the fuel pump uses the fuel for both cooling & lubrication.
running low on gas causes the pump to run hot, running out of gas runs the pump dry & damages the internal parts.

i recommend to my customers to not let the needle drop below the 1/4 mark under most conditions, & never run it no lower than the 1/8 mark at any time.

 

Well, thats kinda hard to do when you only get 140 miles to the tank. So your saying fill up every 110 miles?? You can't go too long going 110 miles. I am not saying that this is or is not good advise but dog gone! Would there be a better option like an external fuel pump?

 

DID YOU UNBOLT THE EXAUST FROM THE CAT OR CUT IT NEAR THE AXEL?

 

I'd make sure it's your pump before doing anything... With the key on, supply 12v to Pin G on the ALDL connector under the dash (should be the pin on the bottom left) with the key in the on position... listen for the pump running... if it's running, check your pressure again... it might be worth getting a fuel pressure gauge. If it's not running, I would check the relay under the hood, I'm not sure where it's located for sure, you'll have to search the boards, or maybe someone else can post the location here.

If everything else points to a bad fuel pump, then I'd say it's time to replace it. I helped a friend do his pump first... the tank was empty and everything, we just went at it. He had an electric impact wrench, which helped a little bit, but really couldn't be used in many places. It took the two of us about 3-1/2 hours.

I then had to do mine alone about a month later. I had no power tools, and a 3/4 tank of gas when it went out. I had to empty the tank through the return line into 2 different gas cans, which took me a good hour, probably closer to 1-1/2 hours. Even with that setback it only took me about 6 hours, with the re-install being done in the dark.

It's really not that bad to do, just get the car way up in the air, unbolt the Control Arms, Sway Bar and Shocks... Unhook the steel brake line from the connector at the frame (just pull out the clip or the bolt that holds the bracket.) Check to make sure you have some slack in the e-brake cables (mine were alright) and lower the rear down as far as possible (remember the higher the car is, the lower you can lower the rear, which means you can get the tank out much easier)

You're best just disconnecting your exhaust, it's easiest if you can disconnect the I-Pipe from the cat and drop the whole muffler down on top of the rear, or if you can disconnect the muffler from the I-Pipe you would probably be fine. I just laid my muffler on top of my rear end after disconnecting it from the cat. On my friends car, his exhaust was welded all the way, so we just pulled the mounts off the frame and literally bent it down and hung on it as we pulled the tank, it was a pain, but we got the tank out and back in without cutting it or breaking it or anything.

After that you're pretty much home free, just take down the heat shields, then you can disconnect the lines from the tank (over on the driver side by where you did the brake line), be careful if you have a lot of gas, as the return line will start to syphon when you disconnect it, good time to find a gas can or something to drain the tank. You will have to remove the plastic around the filler neck on the tank, along with the gas door.

Now just drop the tank out. It wasn't super easy to get the tank out, but it's do-able, it just takes patients and as much room as possible, it has to come down to a degree then go towards the passenger side to clear the filler neck on the frame, it'll be helpful if you can have someone guide the neck down, or at least tell you which way to go.

Once you get it out of the car, you'll have to remove the retainer ring around the pump/sender hole, then pull your sender/pump out, change the pump and now do everything you just did in reverse, it's easier going back in, especially since you now know how it goes together.

Make sure you are careful of dirt when pulling the sender/pump unit out, it's best to try to clean that area of the tank before removing the retainer ring, just to be safe. Also, replace the strainer that goes on the bottom of the pump and the "pulsator" that goes between the pump and the steel line, I just opted to go with the cheap easy replacement, I just used a 2 inch piece of rubber high pressure fuel line and 2 hose clamps (works fine, barely hear any more noise from the pump than before). Finally, make sure you replace your fuel filter with the pump, I've heard people say that when the pumps go, they can send debris through the system to that filter.

When you've got everything back together, make sure you have no leaks and everything is tightened down and back where it's supposed to be. It sounds like a lot, but it's not that bad, I think you'll probably be able to do it in under 5 hours, as long as the tank is empty (draining it took me a long time). It was a good learning experience for me, it taught me one big lesson... use a good pump, cause you won't wanna do it again.

 

red_johnny, 140 a tank, ouch. how much gas does it take to fill it up at that time?
most of the people i deal with aren't into performance, they want long life & trouble free operation.
i myself run right down to the empty mark, with an 18 gallon tank there have been times it took 17.5 gallons to fill it. i get abit over 300 miles from a tank.
i run 2 external pumps on my car, 1 is a supply pump, the other is the high pressure pump. after around 3 years of use i had to replace the high pressure pump about a month back after i ran out of gas 2 weeks before it quit.

 

Well, when I get that far down I usually can put in close to 14 gallons and when it is that far down when I take turns it sputters and thats when I know I need fuel ASAP!! 18 gallon tank~?~ Where do I get my hands on one of them? I would love to get 300 miles to a tank! Hell, thats twice as much as I am getting on 14! I think I can get better than that now with the new TPI heads I put on, and I got a new intake too.

 

hey, MysticWizard thanks for the descriptive info. i'm going to double check on everything before that final step. probably be a least two weeks, i don't really have time during the week and it gets darl early. i 'll keep you poted. thanks again,


ORod

 

So you can run an external pump inline with the intank pump?
Did you bypass the intank? How did you set yours up and what are you using? I was wondering if the intank was enough to feed my built 383 and was considering trying to find a hi volume in tank replacement. An external would be much simpler, I would think.
Thanks,
Tuck

 

red_johnny, i don't have a camaro, i have a monte carlo with a 92 TPI setup. its fully stock but i have read that some here done have done some pretty heavy mods & get alot better mileage than i do. im looking to up my mileage soon with some changes to my chip, & hopefully get alittle better performance too

 

jetucker00, as my car never had an intank pump there was no need to bypass it. sense my motor is all stock i don't need huge amounts of fuel.
the high pressure pump i run is from a ford pickup, from around 87 or so. you can run a low pressure high volume supply pump feeding a high pressure pump just fine as long as the supply
pump can move more fuel than the high pressure pump can, if you run a inline pump i think its best to use a high volume supply pump so the high pressure pump doesn't get starved for fuel because most high pressure pumps are made to push fuel & but don't pull fuel very well (thats how ford did it).

i may put an intank pump in my car some day, but i really hate dropping a tank to replace the pump,... especially on my own car. as it is right now i can change both pumps on my car in about
15 to 20 minutes.