What A Differance
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From: stockton, CA
Car: Camaro RS/SS
Engine: 5.7 LS1
Transmission: 4L60E Transgo shift kit, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen Rear 3:42
What A Differance
Today i put my timming 8* advanced. and let me tell you!! My car is crazy.. i can do burn outs like crazy and accelerate like no tomorrow. I love it. I took my friend in it and after i was done showing what my car can do, he was shacking.. I love it!!:lala: :hail:
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
advancing the timing does wonders, my freinds highly modded 350 ran like crap until he advanced the timing to 8*
hasn't lost a race in it since
hasn't lost a race in it since
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From: stockton, CA
Car: Camaro RS/SS
Engine: 5.7 LS1
Transmission: 4L60E Transgo shift kit, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen Rear 3:42
its weird how a little thing can make a big thing so great im so excited about it, feels like no one can beat me.
I'm sure this is posted somewhere on here, but I'm too lazy to look right now.
How do you advance your timing, and how much should you do it?
I have a 1992 Camaro RS V8 305TBI
How do you advance your timing, and how much should you do it?
I have a 1992 Camaro RS V8 305TBI
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From: Laguna Beach, Ca
Car: Gutted 92' RS TRACK ONLY / '86 Mustang gt 'vert / 1982 Yamiaha xs400 Cafe Racer
Engine: L03; TBI is IT! / 5.0HO (306) SFI / 400cc air cooled twin
Transmission: 700-r4 / WCT5/ 6-speed close ratio
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From: stockton, CA
Car: Camaro RS/SS
Engine: 5.7 LS1
Transmission: 4L60E Transgo shift kit, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen Rear 3:42
i dont think you want to retared your timming. I think it makes it worse for you.
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Thread Starter
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From: stockton, CA
Car: Camaro RS/SS
Engine: 5.7 LS1
Transmission: 4L60E Transgo shift kit, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen Rear 3:42
im not checking my knocks after i did my timming. but i cant hear anything. my car seem to like what i did to it. what will happen if it is knocking and i leave it like that?
in all honesty, nothing
I had a beater with as messed up ecm and it would knock constantly. I drove the **** out of it for 200k miles and it was fine.
In theory if your running nitrous and it knocks it'll blow the engine.
I had a beater with as messed up ecm and it would knock constantly. I drove the **** out of it for 200k miles and it was fine.
In theory if your running nitrous and it knocks it'll blow the engine.
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From: Maine
Car: 89 Formula 350 WS6
Engine: 383 miniram
Transmission: 700R4
IMO advancing the timing is the best free mod you can do. these cars are incredibly responsive to it. if you have a DIY prom you can do that in the spark advance table but if not you can accomplish about the same result the ol skool way. i had a few knock counts at WOT but nothing significant and the difference is simply amazing. another great cheapo mod was the the throttle body coolant bypass. it cost me about $5 and SOTP dyno said it gave me about 20hp depending on the weather. with that, a k&n, airfoil and 3" exhaust i ran a 102 trap on a bone stock engine.
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From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
What was your timing previously set at? I'm interested in how much you advanced it. Thanks, Allen
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From: Laguna Beach, Ca
Car: Gutted 92' RS TRACK ONLY / '86 Mustang gt 'vert / 1982 Yamiaha xs400 Cafe Racer
Engine: L03; TBI is IT! / 5.0HO (306) SFI / 400cc air cooled twin
Transmission: 700-r4 / WCT5/ 6-speed close ratio
Yes it will help on the 2.8.
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From: Long Neck, De
Car: 2002 SS
Engine: Ls1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi
Its weird i hear people saying that they have trouble doing burnouts and stuff but i just get on it alittle bit power bracked then let off and she spins a good 3-4 sec coming out of it like its not having trouble it all its weird.
How would i go about adjusting it on a Fi 2.8
How would i go about adjusting it on a Fi 2.8
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From: Staten Island, NYC
Car: 1987 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
Engine: Novi'ed 304 H.O.
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Trac-Lok w/ Moser axles
Originally posted by Ramair21
its weird how a little thing can make a big thing so great im so excited about it, feels like no one can beat me.
its weird how a little thing can make a big thing so great im so excited about it, feels like no one can beat me.
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by madmax
Wow. Next thing you know, people will start changing their oil, changing their fuel filters, spark plugs, plug wires...
Wow. Next thing you know, people will start changing their oil, changing their fuel filters, spark plugs, plug wires...
LMAO
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From: South Jersey
Car: 87 Iroc Z-28
Engine: 355 Vortec Superram
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by Ramair21
im not checking my knocks after i did my timming. but i cant hear anything. my car seem to like what i did to it. what will happen if it is knocking and i leave it like that?
im not checking my knocks after i did my timming. but i cant hear anything. my car seem to like what i did to it. what will happen if it is knocking and i leave it like that?
What causes these is:
Overheating of the engine
Timing problems
Use of a lower octane fuel
Improper use of nitrous
Now, keep the octane ratings in mind. If you used to switch from like regular to premium once and a while, you may have to use premium all the time now. This is due to the fact that the higher the octane rating in gasoline, the SLOWER it burns.
Hope this helps, and rock on with your newfound smokey burnoutedness.
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From: NJ,USA
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: GMPP 350 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Next time you race try and run with about a 1/4 tank of gas. The car will feel much faster.
It saves like 150lbs of weight or somthing...
Oh, check your tire pressure too!
It saves like 150lbs of weight or somthing...Oh, check your tire pressure too!
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From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
I take it people just don't read the tech articles or browse the boards anymore, they just come on to post ala Shane.
Max, you mean I have to change that stuff?!? WTF! No one told me that!!
Max, you mean I have to change that stuff?!? WTF! No one told me that!!
Can this be done on a 92 'Bird 305TBI?
My buddy has one and when I reccomended doing it(it runs 15.3s now with some mods) he said it was all electronically controlled and you couldn't manually change it? Is he right?
I have an old 81 and the closest thing to electronics is the radio so I just shrugged my shoulders and said okay when he told me. Whats a good, conservative baseline to set it at-6* or so?
My buddy has one and when I reccomended doing it(it runs 15.3s now with some mods) he said it was all electronically controlled and you couldn't manually change it? Is he right?
I have an old 81 and the closest thing to electronics is the radio so I just shrugged my shoulders and said okay when he told me. Whats a good, conservative baseline to set it at-6* or so?
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From: Milton Keynes, England
Car: 2009 Volvo V50 R Design
Engine: 2.0 turbo diesel
Transmission: 6 speed auto
Axle/Gears: yes, both
Originally posted by Ramair21
im not checking my knocks after i did my timming. but i cant hear anything. my car seem to like what i did to it. what will happen if it is knocking and i leave it like that?
im not checking my knocks after i did my timming. but i cant hear anything. my car seem to like what i did to it. what will happen if it is knocking and i leave it like that?
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by TAdan
Next time you race try and run with about a 1/4 tank of gas. The car will feel much faster.
It saves like 150lbs of weight or somthing...
Next time you race try and run with about a 1/4 tank of gas. The car will feel much faster.
It saves like 150lbs of weight or somthing... AAMOF, with the dinky gas tanks we have, running 1/4 tank instead of a full tank would be ~60lbs less. That's not even enough to make good use of the 10lbs/.1 second rule of thumb.
The 60lbs would probably be better for traction. Plus you wouldn't have to push your car home at the end of the night, unless you break something that is.

Originally posted by AllGoNoShow
My buddy has one and when I reccomended doing it(it runs 15.3s now with some mods) he said it was all electronically controlled and you couldn't manually change it? Is he right?
My buddy has one and when I reccomended doing it(it runs 15.3s now with some mods) he said it was all electronically controlled and you couldn't manually change it? Is he right?
The computer does control the timing, but it uses the stock base timing as a refference point. For instance..... a stock LO3 has a base timing of 0* BTDC. Then the timing table follows that.
If you move the base timing to 4* BTDC, everything in the timing table will automatically have 4* timing added to it, as long as the engine doesn't knock. If the knock sensor kicks in IIRC, the timing table is retarded up to 20* to get rid of the knock. That's quite a loss.
And believe me, the knock sensor will know if the engine is knocking, retard the timing, and slow the car down WAY before you'll be able to hear it.
Originally posted by AJ_92RS
Yes and no.
The computer does control the timing, but it uses the stock base timing as a refference point. For instance..... a stock LO3 has a base timing of 0* BTDC. Then the timing table follows that.
If you move the base timing to 4* BTDC, everything in the timing table will automatically have 4* timing added to it, as long as the engine doesn't knock. If the knock sensor kicks in IIRC, the timing table is retarded up to 20* to get rid of the knock. That's quite a loss.
And believe me, the knock sensor will know if the engine is knocking, retard the timing, and slow the car down WAY before you'll be able to hear it.
Yes and no.
The computer does control the timing, but it uses the stock base timing as a refference point. For instance..... a stock LO3 has a base timing of 0* BTDC. Then the timing table follows that.
If you move the base timing to 4* BTDC, everything in the timing table will automatically have 4* timing added to it, as long as the engine doesn't knock. If the knock sensor kicks in IIRC, the timing table is retarded up to 20* to get rid of the knock. That's quite a loss.
And believe me, the knock sensor will know if the engine is knocking, retard the timing, and slow the car down WAY before you'll be able to hear it.
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From: Staten Island, NYC
Car: 1987 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
Engine: Novi'ed 304 H.O.
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Trac-Lok w/ Moser axles
Originally posted by AllGoNoShow
Thanks for the help AJ. So bring it to the track? Give it 2 degrees until it slows down and then retard it back 2 degrees? Sounds easy enough! I know its quite a shot in the dark, but how much you think this will be worth on a 15.3 305TBI? Enough to sneak into the 14s?
Thanks for the help AJ. So bring it to the track? Give it 2 degrees until it slows down and then retard it back 2 degrees? Sounds easy enough! I know its quite a shot in the dark, but how much you think this will be worth on a 15.3 305TBI? Enough to sneak into the 14s?
IUNNO.
- Bosephus' friend
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From: dallas,tx
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: tree-fiddy
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by cormyr
a great cheapo mod was the the throttle body coolant bypass. it cost me about $5 and SOTP dyno said it gave me about 20hp
a great cheapo mod was the the throttle body coolant bypass. it cost me about $5 and SOTP dyno said it gave me about 20hp
You should use that quote to sell the "kits" on ebay. lol
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From: Maine
Car: 89 Formula 350 WS6
Engine: 383 miniram
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Dr.NickRiviera
You should use that quote to sell the "kits" on ebay. lol
You should use that quote to sell the "kits" on ebay. lol
Originally posted by NYC LSC
Just look at your user name for your answer, grasshoppa.
IUNNO.
- Bosephus' friend
Just look at your user name for your answer, grasshoppa.
IUNNO.
- Bosephus' friend
And stop trying to imply you are part of NYC with your username. While it may "technically" be one of the five boroughs, just about every Staten Islander I've met would rather succede from the City of New York(as was attempted in the early 90s unsuccessfully).

I'm just messing with ya don't take me seriously. I can take it too!
As I mentioned before my knowledge of electronics is limited seeing as I have a big-loud-carbed-solid cammed-no electronics but an MSD box 81' Camaro. Just going by what my friend told me. But I admit I expected a few smart a$$ remarks!!
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by cormyr
believe me i've thought about it but it isnt a high enough priced item to be worth my while. so just go to the hardware store and but the little plastic coupler and maybe replace your hose clamps if you need to. it's less than $5 actually. but seriously, i literally checked my MAT before and after and it dropped the intake air temp by 80 degrees! that is, until the plenum heat soaks...
believe me i've thought about it but it isnt a high enough priced item to be worth my while. so just go to the hardware store and but the little plastic coupler and maybe replace your hose clamps if you need to. it's less than $5 actually. but seriously, i literally checked my MAT before and after and it dropped the intake air temp by 80 degrees! that is, until the plenum heat soaks...
it's called sarcasm, look it up
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Originally posted by CamaroZ_85
No, unfortunately the Pontiacs didn't have this option
You can only adjust the timing on a Camaro.
No, unfortunately the Pontiacs didn't have this option
You can only adjust the timing on a Camaro.
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