hey guys,
I'm in the process of taking the ol' 305 out of the car as well as other equipment I'm not going to need anymore like smog stuff and computer.
I'm pretty sure that the computer only controls the stuff on the carb and sensors right? It won't effect the gauges I believe. However, my question is what about the fuel pump in the gas tank? Is that control by the computer? If I remove the computer will the pump not work? Anyone have any suggestions on what to do?

Oh, and I'm replacing the LG4 with a carbed 350

Thanks.

 

Yes.

Do yourself a favor and replace the 305 with the 350. Leave the computer controlled carb and distributor. Unless you are building a bracket racer that won't see street duty, you won't do better in the carb and distributor department for a street driver than the computer controlled system.

You'd also better have big plans for the exhaust. The stock LG4 stuff holds back an LG4. Shorty headers with a good y-pipe and 3" exhaust to the muffler is a good way to go. Spend your performance dollars on that instead of wasting it on replacing the perfectly good carb and distributor.

Unless your car has had the anti-vaporlock kit installed, it won't have a fuel pump in the tank. If it has had the kit installed, it won't be affected if you follow my advice, and as far as I know, won't be affected if the ECM is removed as long as you retain the proper control wiring & switches. The gage signals don't go through the ECM.

 

I will give a little ground on the above since you have a 5-speed. In that case, a double pumper Holley or Demon can be argued. However, if you intend to install an Edelbrock Performer or Street Avenger, then I double everything I said above.

 

five7 -
Thanks for the reply. I'm sorry, I think I should have been more specific on what I plan to do. Yes, I am going to replace the 305 with a pretty hot 350 or 383(haven't really decided yet, but I need to soon) that I intend to take to the track. Probably getting a tremec 5-speed and a 750 demon mech sec. Hooker long tubes and big exhaust are planned.
I hear what sounds like an electric pump turn on before I crank it over. So I am assuming that it has had the vapor lock kit installed. I shouldn't assume, so is there way to check for sure on the tank from underneath?
So if I remove the computer the pump will still work fine (keeping the control wiring & switches)?
And I plan on keeping the wiring and sensors for the other things just in case, not just cutting and junking it.

Thanks again for your help.

 

Knowing the intended usage is helpful. Otherwise, only assumption can be made based on the question being asked.

Check your fuse panel (IIRC that's where it's located, rather than the "Convenience Center") for a fuel pump relay. That's the easiest way to confirm whether or not it has the in-tank electric. Also check for an oil pressure switch rather than just an oil pressure sender for the gage.

The vapor lock kit also included a little blower behind the battery to blow cool air on the carb when it was hot and not running. Interestingly, my donor car had the blower but not the in-tank electric.

Personally, I think using the in-tank electric as a pusher to the engine-mounted mechanical is a good plan. GM used the in-tank as part of the HO 350 Camaro Conversion Kit, but included a regulator. Be sure whatever you do to have a return set-up so the in-tank doesn't overheat.

 

When i took my computer out, i removed ever wire off of it except for one. IIRC it was a brown wire that went from the oil pressure sensor to the gauge cluster.

I don't know about an 86 though, this was my 83 LG4.

I also traced every freakin wire and got rid of 10#'s or so of wire. It looks much better without having all that crap in there. Just an engine, simple is beautiful IMO. But i removed everything electrical except the alternator, and headlights, they are on different circuit then the computer crap.

Good luck i pulled the connectors off the computer one by one until stuff didn't work anymore then i knew where the wire where that i needed.

Its not hard, it just takes awhile, also a multimeter is helpful, to make sure you have the same wire.

 

57 - I will check out the fuse panel, thanks. However, I'm pretty sure I don't have that little blower you were talking about, but I will double check for sure. Sorry, one more stupid question, what's the difference between an oil pressure switch and sender? On my setup I have a tall pipe coming out of the block with a right angle and a canister looking piece attached to it.


ME - Yes, I agree with the whole simple is beautiful thought. I'm going to do the same thing, trace the wires that I don't need and remove them. I'll have to check for the brown wire for the oil pressure sensor.

Thanks again for the replys