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RS is STILL overheating

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Old Jun 7, 2001 | 11:10 PM
  #1  
bowtieNtx's Avatar
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From: Longview, TX USA
RS is STILL overheating

After replacing the radiator with a new 3-core, new water pump, ribbed hoses, fan motor, thermostat, vacumn heater control valve, my '91 RS 305cid 5-speed STILL climbs to the red on the gague.

On the highway, it's fine. Around town and doin' the revs it gets hot in a quickie. As in above 240. Blows steam into the overflow bottle. Good flow through the block and the fan is turning as I bypassed the switch.

It just started this overheating crap recently and I don't run the air.

Thanks Bro's,

'91 RS 305cid (stock internals) 5-speed, 55mm Edlebrock TBI Holley midrise, K&N, Hyperchip, 3" welded to flowmaster, 3.83 posi on Niddi Ultra-high Performance radials.

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Old Jun 7, 2001 | 11:21 PM
  #2  
LastHopeRS's Avatar
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From: Bloomfield, NJ
It might sound dumb, but have you checked the temp gauge because it sounds like you've got everything else in check. Those gauges can be terribly innaccurate sometimes. SORRY I AM A MORON>>>>>STEAM IN THE OVER FLOW BOTTLE IS NOT THE GAUGE>>>> I APPOLOGIZE, it has been a long day.



[This message has been edited by LastHopeRS (edited June 07, 2001).]
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Old Jun 7, 2001 | 11:59 PM
  #3  
LottaBallsCamaro's Avatar
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From: Hampton Roads. VA
HIT IT WITH A HAMMER!!! Really though, Have you checked flow through the block?
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Old Jun 8, 2001 | 12:18 AM
  #4  
bowtieNtx's Avatar
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From: Longview, TX USA
When I replaced the radiator, I blew water through the upper and lower inlet/outlets where the hoses clamp to. Flow was fine and I didn't get alot of dark, rusty crap flowing out as if a blockage might exist or was corroded.

I'm beginning to wonder if maybe it was a bad heater control valve despite being new from the local parts store. I know the vacumn works off of it because i can hear the vents closing up when I do the vent/ defrost deal. After all, that was the first indication I had a problem was when the vacumn control valve cracked and blew out all my antifreeze on my manifold.

Thanks for the idea bro. I'll keep after it.

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Old Jun 8, 2001 | 12:37 AM
  #5  
jeff-78's Avatar
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From: IL USA
have you checked that all the vaccum lines are still connected and secure and whatnot? a vacuum leak could cause the motor to run lean and overheat... just a thought

-jeff
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Old Jun 8, 2001 | 12:45 AM
  #6  
NCZ28's Avatar
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How is the car running? If the timing is off it can cause it to overheat.
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Old Jun 8, 2001 | 02:03 AM
  #7  
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From: Las Vegas, NV
So is mine! I just bought it 2 days ago, and it gets into the red zone. I just put a 160 T-stat in it, with no fix. I don't know if i should throw parts at it, or if there is an order to it....
Tyler

------------------
<A HREF="http://www.pro-touring.com/featured_cars/Tyler_Beauregard/tyler_beauregard.htm" TARGET=_blank>
68-LT1-T56
</A>
<A HREF="http://www.pro-touring.com/featured_cars/Tyler_Beauregard/tyler_beauregards_project_5050.htm" TARGET=_blank>
50-50
</A>
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Old Jun 8, 2001 | 11:50 AM
  #8  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
I'm guessing the fan isn't turning on? Idle the motor, the fan should come on at 220? for the single fan setup.
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Old Jun 8, 2001 | 11:55 AM
  #9  
TransamGTA350's Avatar
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From: South Windsor, CT
Car: '89 GTA
Engine: ZZ6TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 3.70:1
Sounds like your fan is not coming on. Most likely because of a bad fan switch located in the passenger side cylinder head. You didn't say that you had replaced it, so I am assuming that you haven't. It could also be the gauge.

------------------
89 Transam GTA, 350TPI, auto, 3.27 rear, dual cats, gray.
Magnaflow cat-back,
K&N open element,
Best E.T. 14.63@95mph
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Old Jun 8, 2001 | 12:33 PM
  #10  
Xenodrgn's Avatar
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by bowtieNtx:
Good flow through the block and the fan is turning as I bypassed the switch.
</font>
Read more carefully... :P

It sounds like you have it all covered... hmm, might wanna check timing and vaccuum leaks like someone said. Thats the only thing that comes to mind... And be -sure- the coolant is flowing... Just cause it's new doesn't mean it works (although, in most cases...)

Good luck.

------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)
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Old Jun 8, 2001 | 01:06 PM
  #11  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Xenodrgn:
Read more carefully... :P


</font>

DOH!!
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Old Jun 9, 2001 | 12:50 AM
  #12  
Kat's Avatar
Kat
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From: Upland Pa
Car: Camaro Vert
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
Are ya sure that ya got the right water pump?

Cause if ya get one for a older car the fins on the inside of the pump are one way. They reversed for the serpintine set up so if ya get the older style pump it is sending the coolant the wrong way throght the block.

Also to do ya have the air dam that is under the car?

Kat

------------------
90 RS 305 TBI A4
Dumb *** /**** poor/orginating memeber of the infamous NE Crew
Time to see, believe this in me,This pain that i feel deep inside



[This message has been edited by Kat (edited June 08, 2001).]
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Old Jun 9, 2001 | 07:20 AM
  #13  
dtpmike's Avatar
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From: jacksonville
Do you have an air dam? Ive seen many camaros that have removed them including mine for some reason. Once I got a new one my car was much cooler, normally it does not even get to the first mark past 100 degrees, I guess that is 180 degrees. I have a 160 degree t-stat, 3 core radiator, "performance" water pump. Then I got an air dam. All of these parts were bought at autozone except the dam I bought at the dealership.

Also try flushing it out. What color is your fluid? Mine was red/brown so I had to flush it out and that seemed to help.

BTW, I run my AC constantly. If you have it on MAX your fans will come on and help cooling, Im not sure if it does it for normal or bi-level.

------------------
89 camaro 305 tbi, flomaster 3 chamber cat back, gutted cat, Edlebrock TES Headers, Exhaust cutout, Edlebrock open element, 160 degree T-stat, and a Stage 2 FastChip.

2 kicker comp 12"'s, polk for the rest. Phoenix gold xs2300 to subs, kicker impulse 404XI to 4 speakers, pioneer DEH- P7000R head unit, and finally a 12 disc changer. Full leather interior from http://www.MrMikes.com
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Old Jun 9, 2001 | 08:22 AM
  #14  
bbtaz97's Avatar
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From: Winfield, IL
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350tpi comming soon!
Transmission: fixed the 700r4 again!
i would say check the fan motor.. b/c at 220 that fan should kick on and if its not that would cause your car to overheat. start it up and just let it run . yoou shoudl see the fan come on when you temp guage reads approx 220 or so. if not theres your problem. thats the only thing i could think of if you have replaced all that stuff..

------------------
91 camaro RS
- 305 TBI
Mods: Performer TBI intake, 1" TBI spacer, K+N, jet fan switch ,160 thermo,Accel control module, Jet Stage 2 chip, edelbrock TES headers, Compleate 3" Flowmaster exhaust, Edelbrock springs, KYB struts and shocks, 700R4 built by TSI, SLP tq converter, b+m trans cooler, white guage faces, megashifter..
next month: spohn LCA's and panhard rod, BMR relocation brackets, 323 gear
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Old Jun 9, 2001 | 08:27 PM
  #15  
mtg92camarors's Avatar
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From: Lexington, SC USA
hey man

mine did that crap 2.
ive got a 92 305
what i did was put a 180 degree thermostat in it and flushed out the cooling system. there was all kinds of rusted water in the system. if u dont know how to flush it out, ya just stick a hose in the spot where the radiator hose goes for about 5 minutes, then the hole where the thermostat goes on the block. now that i've done that, it wont go over 220.
also just turn on your AC and the fan should cool it down if ur sitting in traffic. it can be such a pain when you're in stand still traffic and the car starts getting hot!
hope that bit helped ya man.

-92RS
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Old Jun 9, 2001 | 10:58 PM
  #16  
Mark A Shields's Avatar
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Just something to check, you said you got a new radiator, which I would think you got a new radiator cap, but if you didn't and the old one doesn't hold the pressure it will cause your car to overheat.

------------------
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
FLOWMASTER
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat
2:73 GEARS
Rebuilt 700R4, with manual valve body
B&M Megashifter
Soon to be installed
Exhaust Cut-Out and different gears, either 3:73 or 3:42
"There is nothing more addicting than speed"
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