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roller rockers worth the trouble?

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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 05:31 AM
  #1  
scooted45's Avatar
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From: Baltimore Md
Car: 86 sport coupe, 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7 TPI, 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T-5, T-5
Axle/Gears: drum posi 3.73, disc open 2.73
roller rockers worth the trouble?

Ihave a 88 l98 w/ a set of aluminum r r's that were really cheap, maybe $140 I don't know the manufacturer, and when ordered they came with no special install instructions.

I followed the basic specs for a tpi engine (Tdc, slight resistance, 3/4 turn) and they oil funny, (some oil more than others) and one of the rockers loosened enough to allow the pushrod to pop out nearly causing catastrophic engine damage. I got away with a few small nicks on my #3 intake rocker. I adjusted them again and it runs good.


I would like to avoid this happening again. Is there a special torque value, feeler depth, or valve lash adjustment that I'm overlooking. Thanks
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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 06:11 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
never mind

Last edited by ede; Dec 12, 2004 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 06:21 AM
  #3  
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From: Bonner Springs, KS
Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
You can't lash all of the rockers at #1 TDC... Do a search on valve lash adjustment, you do half of them at #1 TDC and the other half at #6 TDC. Other than that, do what ede said with the poly-locks.
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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 06:49 AM
  #4  
thunderstick's Avatar
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From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
or do each cylinder one at a time in firing order. that's what i did (that someone on this board told me how to) and worked good first time. i'm probably gonna do it again, though, cuz it was (is) a new engine and all the lifters are good and pumped up now. but what you do is start with your #1 in tdc for firing, set that lash, then 8,4,3,6,5,7,2. you will make 2 full rotations of your crank, because for each cylinder you do, it's a 1/4 turn. if you have a standard size balancer, each 1/4 equals 5 3/8 inches on the circumference of the balancer. easy to measure with a ribbon tape measure. good luck.

KAM
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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 07:42 AM
  #5  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Those sound like they might be CAT rockers.
Are they black?
If so, the locking nuts that come with them are pretty cheap, they're really shaky compared to any quality piece.
Buying some higher quality aftermarket locking nuts may help your problem, in addition to following the steps mentioned above.
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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 09:42 AM
  #6  
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naf
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Are they self-aligning rr's? May need guides.
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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 02:13 PM
  #7  
scooted45's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 80
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From: Baltimore Md
Car: 86 sport coupe, 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7 TPI, 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T-5, T-5
Axle/Gears: drum posi 3.73, disc open 2.73
worth the trouble

Yeah I adjusted 1/2 of them @ tdc #1 and 1/2 @ tdc #6 or 360 like it said in the book. They're blue anodized. What kind of free'd up power do they boast?
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Old Dec 12, 2004 | 05:52 PM
  #8  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
I couldn't say what gains there are on the dyno, but if you do a swap from factory rockers to rollers there is a noticable difference.

Here's a thread that has a nice tip for how to keep the lock nuts tight.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=267989
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