Ok so I took the cammy in for inspection and failed a few cosmedic things, no big deal, but also failed the idle emissions test. The car passed the high speed emissions test with flying colors.

Ok so I fix the cosmedic stuff and lowered the fuel pressure thinking it is too high at idle. I have the GM vacum adjustable TBI FP regulator. She failed again with almost the same results.

OK so I go back home and put the stock regulator in with the stock spring and then go back and I fail again and this time it is worse than before. I'm running out of things to try and the temp tag expired today.


What else could I try. I know I keep getting the 32(EGR) after driving at a constant rate for a while. Could that have anything to do with it? The HCs and CO2s are way above the limit for Delaware. I couldn't get a reading of the FP with the stock reg and stock spring but before I had the adjustable one at 13psi. Maybe timing, engine temp, EGR, ....????

Car is in the sig.

 

I don't have to worry about smog tests here in ******* Oregon, so I haven't tried the stuff, but how about some " Guaranteed to Pass". Look for it at your local auto supply.

 

iggy1991, it would help if you put what the min/max & actual readings are, we need to know speed/rpm, HC, CO, CO2, O2, & NOx if checked for both pass & fail. the more info, the better.

 

With all the stuff you have installed it's no surprise it won't pass the sniff test. One thing to try is a Bosch heated O2 sensor. My runaround car is a 91 Lumina z-34. All I did was put on Flowmaster mufflers and the readings tripled. A heated sensor solved the problem. The Camaros I have looked at all seem to idle close to tolerance even when stock. My IROC richened up coming off high RPM, a heated sensor also solved that. Bosch makes a universal heated sensor with wiring instructions. EGR is triggered by the VSS sender after you are over about 35 mph and engine is in closed loop. Does the speedo work, that could be why the EGR code is being set. Timing, engine temp are ALL factors when it comes to a sniff test. You can cheat by disconnecting the ESC connector and retarding the base timing. As was stated more info helps.

 

put premium in, use a lot of ethenol (the guaranteed to pass stuff) then buy your stickers under the table and put them on yourself. Usually only costs around 140 bucks. Just gotta make friends with an inspector.

 

Seems like the cat is weak (if the car still has one) at idle....it doesn't remain hot enough at idle. If I'm reading the mod list correctly, this can be due to the headers; the exhaust system doesn't retain heat.

The heated O2 sensor that Danno mentioned might help.

I have a set of the old SLP tri-y headers (49-state) and the car really needs to be run at a high idle for a while before the idle readings are taken. The only difference between the 49-state and CA cert headers was that the CA headers where wrapped to retain heat.

 

Ok heres the last test results from the lastest attempt...

HC 335 should be under 220
CO% 2.58 should be under 1.20

I do have a cat installed and its new less than 6 months.

I'm gonna try a bunch of things today and see what happens.

 

Find some one that cna buy you a tag!

 

Finding someone to buy a tag is out of the question. I'm gonna lower the FP even more with the reg and retard the timing and go into the test with the temp pretty high.

 

Ok I went one last time after turning the fuel pressure way down at idle and retarding the timing and she passed with flying colors. The readings went from 335 to 63 and from 2.58 to 0. What a difference. I think its time for some computer tuning.