could you run 11's with stock bottom end and right suspension.

 

YES!

With the right heads, cam, intake, carb. You will need some good gears, a good trans, the right stall (or suited manual), slicks, and good suspension. If it all falls right, there is no reason why you cant. A lot of guys here run the stock shortblock to pretty far extremes. I think IHI is one of the guys that runs low times on a stock shortblock. I dont have the times, but my cast crank, stock rods, cast piston bottom end makes trips past 7K all the time.

 

LS1's run 12's on a totally stock motor, 11's with cam and headers.

 

would i be able to do it with out nitrus what would be good heads carb and intake to get me there and do you think a 4.10 gear is good. right know suspension wise i have lakewood 50/50 shocks 90/10 struts
ac/smog delete alot of weght is off the car i'm in the middel of relocatin the battery.
could i use the 700r4 with a shift kit.

 

Not a stock one, it will go boom, they cannot handle the power required.

For heads these will work great : http://www.webpages.uidaho.edu/~osie4078/proheads.htm

 

You are going to need more suspension work than that to get 11's, at least easily. You definately can do it without nitrous. Its just a matter of getting the intake/cam/heads/carb together properly. Getting everything matched right is the hardest part, from there its all cake.

A stock 700 isnt gonna cut it. Either cough up the cash for a Pro-Built 700, or go th350. There are tons of threads in the trans boards about the th350 conversion, and if you are interested, PM me I can hook you up with some real nice links to make the job easy.

 

i want those heads. i'm just to poor to afford them. those would be perfect for my 383...

 

Thats what i had planned for them, but now i'm going LS1.

 

Great advise so far. Key to power is not the short block, but rather the top end since that's where all the power really comes from, a great shortblock just gives you reliabilty. I've been very lucky this year running a stock shortblock and the whole key to making a motor live IMO is not spinning it to death since rpm is a motor killer. But it's also a double edged sword, by keeping the power band down lower, it will start to tax traction. Luckily our cars are very good at trasfering weight and can plant quite a bit of power with just a few mods, planting the power consistently every pass for bracket racing is when it starts to get a little more involved.

Rear end gearing will be the last thing considered and is dependant on what you decide to put together for a motor, cam specs being the biggest deciding factor. While deciding gear ratio you must also account for the heigth of your rear tire to optimize. I have some posts around here explaining how much I lost by just going from a 28" slick to a 29.5" slick.

You can do 11's in the 1/4 with a 700r4, but you must have some extra grunt built into the motor to overcome the added weight and rotating mass associated with the OD transmission as opposed to running a TH350, if your reeally putting down some numbers a TH400 would be the better choice also since internally it's built heavier than the TH350, even though there are guys doing amazing things on a TH350.

When considering a convertor you need to get one that will flash at or near peak torque of your motor for the best use of power.

You can have a really good motor producing some great numbers, but it's alot easier to go faster by having the entire drivetrain working together effeicently-doing more with less-so to speak.

But in a nutshell, key to good numbers is basically in the heads/cam, stout shortblocks just add reliability.

 

A friend of mine recently did it with a 400. Block bored .060, has a sleeve in one cylinder, stock rods and crank with crappy KB hyper pistons. Sure the shortblock isn't COMPELTELY stock but I'm sure its no more reliable than one.

400, STOCK vortec heads with good springs and guideplates, Comp XS282 cam, Super Victor intake, and 750 Speed Demon. With 3.42 gears, 26" drag radials, and a 4000 stall the motor went 11.79 @ 113mph 2nd pass down the track with NO tuning. This car also weighs 3600lbs

He sprayed it with a 125 shot and it hit low 11's @ 122mph! With tuning this car will be into the 10's no doubt. All on low-buck thrown-together parts in a heavy car that you can drive anywhere.

 

No way those heads are stock, they wont take that much lift stock.

 

by stock I mean no port work, no touching up, and stock valves. The guides were cut down, good springs installed, and guideplates for the solid cam. No performance-enhancing mods have been done.

BTW, my vortec heads have over .550" clearance between the valve seal and retainer - stock

 

No way, its not possible!

 

not all vortecs are created equal, I know theres quite a few other people on here who also have .525-.550 clearance stock. Why would I BS about that? I measured it myself and even had someone else measure it because I was so suprised.

Actually I think I had about .540'ish something to be exact. Its been years since I've had them apart.

 

Which castings were they?

 

11s?? w/ a LS1

thats alil farfetched .. with no money invested??

So your saying I can pick up a C4 or a C5 vette and
put some decent tires and run 11s??


or are you saying just the engine runs 11s????

 

I believe he means the engine. There is a guy that is a member on scfyb.com with a 98 camaro that runs 11.3 with the only power-making mods being headers and exhaust. He has done A LOT of weight removal and has a 4600 stall as well as some suspension mods, but it can be done.

 

it can be done, and is often done with stock internal Ls1's. The most common combination for success is a 4000~ rpm stall converter, a lid, headers and a full exhuast, dr's and tuning software. it doesn't take much.

As for doing it with a stock bottom end traditional SBC, absolutely it can be done. Starting out with a roller cam block is a good advantage. something like a comp XR282 cam, a decent set of heads with a combustion chamber that will give you 10~:1 comp, a performer rpm intake and a 700-750DP carb will get you there motor wise. From there you'll need a GOOD torque converter (not the BS tci or b&m ones in summit), somewhere in the 3200-3500rpm stall range, and at least 3.42, ideally 3.73 gears. Get yourself a good set of dr's or even slicks. Get a girdle cover for the stock rear, and maybe even a good set of axles. Give the 700r4 a little more credit than most people do, it'll hold to some abuse for a while (don't expect to last forever, but it'll hold for a while). The stock rear has got about a 50/50 chance of holding up, quite often they can handle 1.6 60's with an auto, and quite often they can't. Get the car down to about 3350 pounds or so, and you should be well into the 11's.

Thats my .02 cents.

Eric

 

Yes stock C5's have been know to run 11.8's and lower in very good conditions.

 

I can vouge for that. Mine were around there without figuring .050" clearance. IIRC, I came up with .495" of lift that I can use and still have .050" of clearance.

This may be because they've had a valve job. I don't know that they have had one, but I can't say they haven't either.

 

That defies popular belief, and is awesome news, for the cheap bastards inside all of us! :rockon: :yourock:

 

Gee. Thanks.

I just wanted to add, that was with the STOCK valve seal in place. Using another type of seal may change that though.

Measure, measure, measure....... repeat for a total of 16 times.

 

I am doing high 11's now with a Stealth Ram & 383.

 

Yea,

guess technology has done tremendous strides when it
comes to a clean fuel injected car with alotta horsepower.
(LS1 corvette, later model mustangs, latter model Fbods.)

and weight reduction plays a big part of it I see!!

dont know too much bout the new vettes
but .. you guys said there are guys that have achieved 11s
with some simple add-ons ..

and I believe ya .. even sometimes its hard too

 

how about teh Holloy systemax II ( 2.02 intake alum heads, 290/297 adv duration lunati cam, holley dual plane alum manifold all matched together) on top of a relatively stock 350 bottom end (forget the casting but its from 1975 c10 i believe) i kno teh engine stock has 175 hp but i do not know the torque.

also the c6 vette pulls 13.6 stock factory

 

13.6 is impressive "stock"

were talking 11s with minor modifications or add-ons
to the LS1.

right now .. im having a hard time findin another american car that runs 13s.
I commend the new vette project ..but they need to go back to the flip lights instead of that european clear junk

 

granted. the new look is similar to the Ferarri 360 Modena or the Viper. i like it better than the pop ups

 

Well ive owned 3 diffrent later model 3rd gens and one 88 Vette
and one big reason is the frog eyes.

vettes will always look good!! however, personal prefrence is all that matters.