It seems as though the top section of the rocker stud is too tall. I can't properly preload the valvetrain and get the "lock" to sit any lower. I don't think the rocker bottom is touching the taper of the stud but I forgot to check. Geometry looks dead on when turning the motor over. These are ARP studs, although I don't know what part # since they came with the heads. (Trickflow part# TFS-30400003). The rockers and polylocks are both from GM Performance Parts. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

i think you need longer pushrods to solve that problem not shorter rocker studs.

 

The geometry looks good though. I agree longer pushrods would solve that problem but looks as though it would cause another.

 

Are you using guide plates? If so, they may have moved the studs upward enough that they're now too long. Also, if you have guide plates in there and those are the self-aligning rockers such as the ones in the LT4 HOT cam kit, you MUST take the guide plates out.

Otherwise, looks to me like you need either shorter studs, or to get the ones you have milled or ground off.

 

I'm not using guide plates. I know the rockers are self aligning. I do have a head bolt washer under the stud since I'm not using guide plates. That was per TrickFlow instructions. I'm going to verify push rod length again with an adjustable. Thanks.

 

You might want to just take the washer out. But make sure the head studs don't bottom out in their holes somehow.

 

todd200 - Not meaning to steal your post, but I have the same dilema....the set screws stick out the same way. But I'm using guide plates.

The new ARP studs are maybe 1/4 inch longer than what I replaced the old studs with . But I can get them to lock nice and tight, but they only go in a couple of threads.....so long as they lock down, will it be OK??

I suspect that there's many running their engines this way with no problems. I'm not too keen on the idea of lopping off the tops of rocker arm studs with a grinder at all. I've seen it mentioned in searches I've done on this.

I'm afraid that would leave a nice uneven suface, and the allen screw would never lock right then.

 

Also, are there poly nuts that are longer I can buy to accomplish the same thing without grinding on new rocker studs?

BTTT...

 

Yes, get some poly nuts intended for use with stud girdles, and they are longer. I think longer pushrods is the way to go.

 

After looking at the poly lock nuts they are very short. When I bought my Comp Pro Mags, mine were also that short as I used them to mock up the valvetrain until my stud girdle and new poly nuts came in. Pushrods were not the problem in my case as I used the same pushrods when mocking up the valvetrain to check pushrod length-which came out to be stock length pushrods. After installing the new poly nuts for use with the stuf girdle, problem solved as the set screws not lock down under the heaad of the nut.

 

Thanks guys...I'll look into getting longer poly nuts then. Like I said, I'm running guide plates, Comp 1.52 roller tip rockers, 7.8 pushrods, but no stud girdles.

The geometry looks fine, so I wouldn't want to mess with pushrod length....I think that would throw everything off. Man, it's ALWAYS SOMETHING....

 

RB, I can't take the washer out either, the ARP studs aren't threaded all the way up to the base. Both sets I have are like that. To take out the washer I would have to counter-sink the stud hole and that would void the warranty on my heads.


Confuzed1, It might be ok leaving it like that but IF one came loose and backed out it could be bad.

I should hear back from TrickFlow tomorrow. If they send the "longer" studs with the heads then I'll get the shorter ones. If not I'll take my other set to a machine shop and have them cut down.

Thanks everyone!

Man, it's ALWAYS SOMETHING....
Tell me about it. This rebuild was supposed to take a month, two max. The car hasn't moved in a year last month. Too much "I'll get these since thier better, oh now this won't work and I'll have to get this......"

 

I boought my girdle from BTE and love it, spring loaded in the center so setting valves is a peice of cake, I was disappointed though, catalog showed a polished aluminum peice and when I opened the box mine was anodized red still works the same though LOL
http://bteracing.com/OnlineCatalog/P...ctID=858787093

Funniest phrase I've ever heard when I was fighting EVERYTHING when I built this new stuff:

"welcome to the world of racing, where everything costs twice as much and never fits"

Now how true is that LOL

 

If it isn't one thing, it's another. If it isn't another, it's one thing...

Just to verify, in that phot of the rocker, is the lifter fully seated and the valve at the fully closed position?

 

If it isn't one thing, it's another. If it isn't another, it's one thing...

Just to verify, in that phot of the rocker, is the lifter fully seated and the valve at the fully closed position?

 

[QUOTE]
Just to verify, in that phot of the rocker, is the lifter fully seated and the valve at the fully closed position?

Yes. On that first rocker the cam is on base circle and adjusted to a 1/4 turn past zero and about another 1/16 after tightening the lock to really lock it down. Everything looks good except the lock sticking out so much.

Thanks.

 

Well....solved!

Don't ask how, but my rocker studs are now all 1/4" shorter....

Now the lock screws lock flush with the top of the poly nut pretty much. Got em all adjusted, and tight - so I'll see how it flies!

 

I had that problem once on just one of them. Stupid me I had it upseide down meaning the flat part where the nut sits was on the bottom and the round part was where i was bolting my nut on.

 

I have the same problem on my heads with ARP studs. They are the same length as stock LT1 studs from the seat up, but are longer on the bottom part.
Without washers or guidplates installed, the ARPs bottom out and don't seat all the way.

My heads didn't come with studs, so I bought ARP's, had the problem and took the stock studs off of my spare lt1 heads to use since I now have SA rockers.