I got home today and decided to take the T/A for a ride. Got in started and went down the road about a mile when it started running like crap. Went home and by the time I got home it was knocking from the area by #6&#8 cyl. I pulled the valve cover and found that one of the rocker studs sheared in half right between the bottom of the rocker and the head. Should I get new heads like a set of torquers or just pull the heads and have screw in studs and machine work done. Of course I want to go the most economical route since I have 2 kids but if head work is going to cost about as much as Torquers I will just get them. oh its a 305 TPI. No I am not going to get a 350 since the bottom of the motor only has 10K miles, but the guy I bought it from after the motor work was done didn't get the heads done just the bottom end. What do you guys think I should do???

 

Cust,

If you don't mind doing a little work yourself (you've already removed the rocker cover, so the hard part is done) extract the broken stud or drill it open and tap the head yourself for a screwed stud. It can all be done with the heads bolted in place.

A new stud can be pressed into place, but instead I would advise tapping the existing hole to 7/16"-14 and screwing in a shoulderless rocker stud (like Mr. Gasket or Elgin). These are about a dollar each. This can be done without the need for machining the stud boss flat and will not interfere with the adjustment of the rocker.

A few hints you should remember if you do this. Plug the oil drainbacks to prevent getting chips and debris in the sump. Use a magnet to pick up all the loose chips from tapping. You might want to get a new tap (about $15.00) to make the job as easy as possible. Tap one hole at a time and use the existing studs for reference marks to make sure the hole gets tapped straight and squarely in line with the others. Use a coating of LocTite 242 when you install the stud to secure it in place.

You might also consider replacing all the studs with screwed ones when you discover how easy it really is.

If you don't feel comfortable tapping the stud holes "freehand" you can get a combination tool that is used as spacer for removing the old studs and as a guide for tapping the holes. It bolts to an adjacent stud and lines up the tap perfectly. I think I've seen them for as little as $15.00 in Jegs, Summit, etc. Comp Cams has one (P/N 5306) that makes the task about as simple as it gets. I've done them freehand with good sucess, using a straightedge clamped to adjacent studs as a guide.

Either way, the fixture, tap, and stud kit would be a lot cheaper than having one of the studs pressed in at a machine shop. For $50.00 or less you have the screwed studs, and always have the tools to do it again.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited June 12, 2001).]

 

Thank you very much for your help Vader, unfortunately the head broke where the stud presses into it so it looks like I am getting at least 1 head. How hard is it to do a head swap on the car. looks pretty straight foward but if you have any tricks you could share I would appreciate it.