When rebuilding an engine, assuming that theres nothing wrong with the engine other than "old age" (high miles), what machine work should be done?
This is on a fairly tight budget (less than 1k total....thats the origional engine included), will hopefully have a set of vortec heads, a cam to match, and will be carb'd
Wont be a "race" motor, will be a daily driver/street night car
Just trying to determine what i should do....find a low miles shortblock or find one for less $$ and rebuild it.
Thanks,
-chris

 

After cleaning and magnaflux you will need to align hone, bore and then hone w/ torqueplates.Finally finish up by setting (cutting) deck heights.

 

Make sure to have the machine install new cam bearings. $1 K is pretty low for an engine rebuild w/vortech heads. (I know, I am still in the process of doing one click this link You will need a dedicated vortec intake manifold to go with your setup. What rated carb are you using?

 

You don't need to waste money on an align hone, thats just crazy.

 

how much should machine work cost?
Right now i've got a 600cfm? edelbrock carb and a weiand intake manifold
for 1k, what could/should i do?

 

clean bore & hone block, replace cam bearings, machine crank, and if you ever turn over 5500 resize rods & arp rod bolts

 

since I'm going through about the same thing...

have the cylinders bored (this is cheapish, should be 100-150 to have all of them bored).

magnaflux the block

hot tank the block (and any other old pieces you're going to put on the car)

install new bearings (rod, mains, cam)

new oil pump

get a rebuild kit from summitracing.com (about 400 dollars) they come with any size piston, and bearings... and should get you right where you need to be for a little under 1000.

 

if there's nothing wrong with it as you say get it cleaned and do nothing else. i'd only do what's needed to bring it back within spec and you'll only know that by measuring and inspecting it after you're down to the bare block.

 

That is an interesting opinion. My engine builder recommends it. My "crazy" opinion is that it should be checked and done if needed. The budget is a factor. All measurments that are taken for boring and decking are taken off the crankshaft centerline. This is why engine builders like to do it. Makes for a quality job overall.Based on the original question, I believe this guy deserves all "opinions" on this subject so he can better educate himself for his project. Final choice on the matter should be his. I have noticed alot of phrases like "that's stupid", that's crazy"etc, regarding "opinions" on replies. This confuses me. :shrug:

 

Yep

All this stuff though is scaring me, dunno if i can do what i want on such a budget.....with my budget, do you think that maybe buying a rebuilt shortblock would be a better idea? Thanks

 

The positive aspects of re-building an engine is that you are able to check, machine as needed and assemble. Quality is somewhat easy to check this way. Buying a block, shortblock or assembled motor is sometimes cheaper but you have no idea what was done inside regarding quality parts or labor. I have my opinion as to what is needed and what isn't. Shoot me a pm if you like and I will offer it. I have a price list of labor from my engine builder and will list some prices off it to give you a better idea.
These are labor prices only:
hot tank block- $36
shot peen block-$45
install cam bearings-$20

bore cylinders (8 cyl) and deck block $100
hone v-8 w/ torque plates $60
align hone $90
For reference purposes a NEW block can be obtained from my local chevy dealer for $700
Also for reference purposes I generally build low dollar stuff. My latest 383 is a complete short block (no cam or lifters) using crap low dollar NEW parts and quality machine work. It is not assembled and I have $2k in it.


I have been financially handicaped my entire life. I have put together 1k shortblocks and had good luck with them. It can be done.

 

I also have all other prices(labor) regarding crank, rods, heads balancing etc. If you are curious just ask and I will provide them.

 

Do you have an AIM screen name?
I'll get in contact with you some way or another later on today, i gotta run out and replace the radiator in the car so i can get it home from my friends house, and its supposed to rain :-/

 

I log on aol thru my wife's name. I am better w/ wrenches than a computer. Her e-mail is Mrsckane@aol.com. I assume the screen name is mrsckane. Not sure though.

 

I'm going to have a 69 block redone before I build it, and I was just wondering if any of you knew of a good shop in MA or NH that did this stuff?? Thanks!!

 

Its a good idea to align hone if your installing new caps of mixed them up, but if they are good, they are good. Now if you were building a high horspower endurance motor with the best components then yes not align honing is just stupid. But for a very cheap budget build it is totally unnecessary.

And of course your machinest recommends its, it more money for him.

 

You are right! Now I feel stupid. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

I don't profess to be any great engine builder so please take this with a grain of salt so here goes. The way we have ever done a line check is to torque the crank in less the rods and spin it. If its smooth and free no line hone needed. If it has some tightness or snags when you spin it then line hone it. Just my